Ask any installer what makes a fence last and you’ll hear the same mantra: get the posts right. The spacing you choose for fence posts sets the rhythm, strength, and long-term stability of the whole run. Space them too far apart and rails sag, panels rack in the wind, and fixings pull; space them too close and you add cost and effort without meaningful benefit. This guide breaks down post spacing for every common garden fence in the UK—panels, closeboard (feather edge), slatted, hit-and-miss, and picket—so you can build once and build right.
We’ll cover easy rules of thumb, exposure adjustments for windy plots, centre-to-centre versus “clear gap” measurements, and how to handle slopes, corners, gates, and curves. Wherever it helps, we’ll point you to the right high-quality components at East Coast Fencing, including fence posts, wooden fence posts, concrete fence posts, strong screws & fixings, and protective gravel boards.
The Short Answer (And Why It’s Not the Whole Story)
For standard UK fence panels that are 1.83 m (6 ft) wide, set posts so that the clear distance between the inside faces of the posts is exactly 1.83 m. If you prefer to mark centres, add one post width: with 100 mm posts, that’s 1.93 m centre-to-centre; with 125 mm posts, allow 1.955 m centre-to-centre.
That rule holds true whether you’re using timber posts and screwing panels to the face, or slotted concrete posts that accept panels (and concrete or wooden gravel boards) in a continuous slot. But spacing is also shaped by fence type, height, and site exposure—and that’s where this guide earns its keep.
Know Your Measurement: Clear Gap vs Centres
- Clear gap (face-to-face): The distance between the inside faces of the two posts. For panels, this should match the panel width—typically 1.83 m in the UK.
- Centres: The distance between the centres of adjacent posts. Centres = clear gap + one post width. Handy for fast set-out using a tape and spray marker.
Tip: If you’re mixing post sizes (e.g., heavier gate posts), switch back to “clear gap” for those bays to avoid creep.
Recommended Post Spacing by Fence Type & Height
Use the table below as a reliable starting point for most gardens. We’ve balanced structural performance, wind behaviour, and cost—then tuned the numbers for popular product families from East Coast Fencing, such as closeboard panels, waney lap panels, hit-and-miss, and picket.
| Fence Type | Typical Height | Standard Clear Gap | Centres with 100 mm Posts | Windy/Exposed Sites |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Prefab Panels (most) | 0.9–1.8 m | 1.83 m | 1.93 m | Reduce to 1.75–1.8 m gap |
| Closeboard Built In-Situ | 1.2–2.0 m | 2.4 m rails | ~2.5 m centres | 2.1–2.25 m rails |
| Slatted / Contemporary | 1.2–1.8 m | 1.8 m | ~1.9 m centres | 1.6–1.75 m |
| Hit-and-Miss | 1.5–1.8 m | 1.8 m | ~1.9 m centres | 1.6–1.75 m |
| Picket (Palissade) | 0.9–1.2 m | 1.5–1.8 m | 1.6–1.9 m | 1.2–1.5 m |
For closeboard built on site, pair robust posts with quality rails—see cant rails, square rails, and feather edge boards. For pre-built panel runs, our heavy-duty and ultra heavy-duty closeboard panels are designed to span the standard bay cleanly.
Does Post Material Change Spacing?
Timber and concrete posts behave differently under load. Concrete is stiffer and shrugs off ground contact, while timber is easier to handle and looks warm and natural. Both support standard panel spacing; the choice affects durability, not bay width.
- Timber posts: Commonly 100 × 100 mm or 125 × 125 mm. Ideal for face-fixed panels and closeboard. Pair with wooden gravel boards and capping for protection.
- Concrete posts: Slotted versions simplify installation of panels and gravel boards, keeping spacing consistent bay after bay.
Wind Exposure: When to Tighten the Bay
In open coastal plots, hilltops, or long corridors that funnel wind, reduce the standard bay by 5–15% to cut bending pressure on rails and fixings. The following table gives quick adjustments you can adopt without over-engineering.
| Exposure | Panel Bay Clear Gap | Closeboard Rail Span | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sheltered | 1.83 m | 2.4 m | Standard subdivision |
| Moderately Exposed | 1.75–1.8 m | 2.1–2.25 m | Use heavier rails |
| Highly Exposed | 1.6–1.7 m | 1.8–2.0 m | Upgrade posts & fixings |
Upgrading the specification is as important as tightening spacing: step up to sturdier posts, heavier panels, and longer fixings from our screws & fixings range.
Slopes, Steps, and Raked Fences
Ground levels rarely cooperate. Two common approaches keep bays consistent without compromising structure:
- Stepped: Keep each bay level and “step” down. Maintain the same clear gap; adjust post heights to suit. Use gravel boards to tidy any triangular gaps.
- Raked (follow the slope): Panels are set to match the gradient. With slotted concrete posts, panels can rake within the slot tolerance. With timber posts, you may trim or shim rails. Keep the clear gap unchanged.
Corners, Curves, and Odd Bays
On tight curves or awkward corners, it’s better to break the rhythm than force a panel to do something it wasn’t designed to. Use a shorter “odd bay” near a corner, or switch to a built-on-site section (closeboard or slatted) for the tricky bit, then return to standard bays.
Gravel Boards: Do They Change Post Spacing?
No—gravel boards protect the base of your fence from splashback and ground contact but do not change the clear gap for panels in a slotted system. Fit concrete or timber gravel boards beneath panels to extend service life and improve visual alignment on uneven ground.
Gate Bays: Stronger Posts, Same Principle
Gate openings are not “normal” bays. Use heavier gate posts and size the clear gap to your chosen gate leaf plus hinge and latch clearances. Keep neighbouring fence bays at the usual spacing to prevent layout creep.
How to Set Out a Run Quickly and Accurately
- Measure the total run: Mark your start and finish points with stakes and a taut line.
- Divide by bay width: For panels, divide the run length by 1.83 m to estimate the number of bays. Adjust with one “odd bay” if needed.
- Mark centres or clear gaps: Choose one method and stick to it for the entire run. Spritz the positions on the ground with paint.
- Dry-fit the first bay: Place the first two posts and either drop in a panel (slotted posts) or clamp a board as a spacer (timber posts) to verify the gap before concreting.
- Check for square at corners: Use the 3-4-5 triangle method or a large framing square to keep returns crisp.
Quick Selector: Post Size, Depth & Spacing
Choose a post section appropriate to height and exposure. Depth matters as much as spacing; a deeper foundation reduces overturning and racking.
| Fence Height | Typical Post Section | Buried Depth | Panel Bay (Clear) | Centres with 100 mm Posts |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0.9 m | 75–100 mm | 450–500 mm | 1.83 m | 1.93 m |
| 1.2–1.5 m | 100 mm | 550–600 mm | 1.83 m | 1.93 m |
| 1.8 m | 100–125 mm | 600–750 mm | 1.83 m | 1.93–1.955 m |
| 2.0 m+ | 125 mm+ | 750–900 mm | 1.6–1.8 m | 1.7–1.9 m |
Pair your posts with the right consumables: cement & postmix, strong structural fixings, and optional post spikes/supports where digging is impractical.
Panel Spacing for Specific Styles
Closeboard Panels
Our heavy-duty closeboard and ultra heavy-duty closeboard panels are designed to occupy a 1.83 m bay. Keep posts at 1.83 m clear gap and use gravel boards beneath to prevent moisture wicking. Where exposure is high, consider reducing the bay to ~1.75–1.8 m and upgrading post section.
Waney Lap & Decorative Panels
Traditional waney lap panels and decorative designs (such as decorative panels, omega lattice, and single slatted) are typically sized for a 1.83 m bay, though some continental panels are 1.8 m. Always measure your panels before fixing the second post.
Hit-and-Miss & Slatted Contemporary Fences
These styles let wind pass through, but the rails and posts still take significant load. Keep spans to 1.8 m as standard; drop to 1.6–1.75 m on exposed sites. Use quality rails (square or cant rails) and exterior-rated fixings.
Picket Fencing
For picket panels the 1.83 m rule still applies. For palings fixed to rails on site, 1.5–1.8 m between posts is ideal. Err shorter where children will climb or where dogs lean and push.
Closeboard Built on Site: Getting Rail Spans Right
Closeboard fences built in situ excel for tricky lines and changes of level. The classic arrangement uses 2 or 3 horizontal rails between posts, with feather-edge boards fixed vertically.
- Typical rail span: 2.4 m between posts in sheltered gardens; 2.1–2.25 m where exposure or height increases.
- Rails: Choose from cant rails (shed water) or square rails for a chunkier look.
- Boards: Use quality feather edge boards with corrosion-resistant fixings.
Worked Examples: Count Your Bays Before You Dig
Use these common runs to sanity-check your shopping list. The counts assume 1.83 m panel bays and 100 mm posts (centres 1.93 m).
| Run Length | Panels (1.83 m) | Posts | Centres (Approx.) | Gravel Boards |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 9.15 m | 5 | 6 | 1.93 m | 5 |
| 11.0 m | 6 | 7 | 1.93 m | 6 |
| 13.5 m | 7 | 8 | 1.93 m | 7 |
| 18.3 m | 10 | 11 | 1.93 m | 10 |
Fixings & Hardware: Sized for the Span
The longer the bay, the more each fixing must do. Select galvanised or exterior-coated hardware from our screws & fixings category to suit post material and fence style.
| Connection | Typical Fastener | Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Panel to Timber Post | Exterior Structural Screw | 75–100 mm | Two per rail per side |
| Rail to Timber Post | Coach Screw/Bolt | 90–120 mm | Use washer for bearing |
| Brackets/Angles | Galvanised Angle | N/A | See ironmongery |
| Panel in Concrete Post | No Screws Needed | N/A | Use slotted posts |
Concrete Quantities: Keep Posts Plumb
Good foundations make spacing work. Typical holes are 250–300 mm in diameter and 600–750 mm deep for 1.5–1.8 m fences. Expect roughly 2–3 bags of 20 kg postmix per hole, more for bigger sections or softer ground. Browse cement products to suit your method.
| Hole Ø | Depth | Fence Height | 20 kg Bags (Approx.) | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 250 mm | 600 mm | 1.2–1.5 m | 2 | Firm ground |
| 300 mm | 700 mm | 1.8 m | 2–3 | Standard install |
| 300+ mm | 750–900 mm | 2.0 m+ | 3–4 | Soft/loose soils |
Common Spacing Mistakes (And How to Avoid Them)
- Ignoring product width: Not all panels are identical—measure the first one before you set the second post.
- Cumulative error: Mark out from a fixed datum (start post) and use consistent clear gaps or centres; don’t leapfrog with a single panel as a spacer.
- Too few posts on slopes: Stepping introduces extra height at each step; add an intermediate post if a step would create an over-tall bay.
- Under-spec’d posts: Taller fences need bigger sections and deeper foundations; spacing alone won’t save an undersized post.
- No base protection: Without gravel boards, timber panels sit in splashback and rot sooner.
When to Choose Concrete vs Timber Posts
If your site is wet, exposed, or you want the lowest maintenance, concrete posts with slotted concrete gravel boards are a robust pairing. Prefer the warmth and easy handling of wood? Opt for timber posts and wooden gravel boards, and upgrade to heavier sections on taller fences.
Advanced Layout: Handling Returns and Setbacks
Returns (L-shaped turns) and setbacks around sheds or planting beds are places where a standard 1.83 m rhythm can fight real-world constraints. Here are pragmatic tweaks:
- Short starter bay: Begin a run with a 1.2–1.5 m bay so full panels land neatly at a gate or corner.
- Hybrid section: Use a short stretch of in-situ closeboard to “absorb” awkward distances, then revert to standard panels.
- Decorative toppers: If height varies, add consistent style at the top with trellis panels or fence topper trellis.
Spacing for Strengthened Systems
Sometimes the landscape insists on an extra-tough specification—parking areas with reversing bumps, footballs, dogs who love to escape, or persistent crosswinds. In these cases:
- Reduce panel bays to 1.6–1.75 m.
- Increase post section to 125 mm (or upgrade to concrete).
- Use heavier panels (see heavy-duty closeboard or ultra heavy-duty).
- Upgrade fixings and consider discreet bracing from the ironmongery category.
Working Over Hardstanding
Can’t dig where you need a post? Use fence post supports bolted to concrete or decking to maintain spacing. These are best for lower fences and non-critical sections; where possible, at least every third or fourth post should be dug-in and concreted for robustness.
Finishing Touches That Protect Your Spacing Investment
Even perfect spacing won’t help a fence that soaks from the base or lets water into cut end grain. Protect your work with smart finishing details:
- Capping: Fit panel capping to shed water and keep a clean sightline along the top.
- Base protection: Choose gravel boards to keep timber off damp soil and even out undulations.
- Gate integration: Marry your fence with garden gates and correct gate furniture so post spacing around openings is precise and durable.
Your Shopping List, Simplified
For a straightforward 10-bay panel run at 1.8 m high in a suburban garden, you’ll typically need:
- 11 × 100–125 mm timber posts or 11 × concrete posts.
- 10 × 1.83 m panels (consider heavy-duty or ultra for exposure).
- 10 × gravel boards to match posts.
- 20–30 kg per hole of postmix (ground-dependent).
- Exterior-rated screws & fixings, plus optional brackets.
Step-By-Step Recap: Perfect Spacing in Practice
- Plan: Confirm panel width, post section, and total run. Decide centres or clear gaps.
- Mark out: Establish a straight line and mark each post position.
- Dig and set first posts: Concrete the first and second post exactly to spacing. Let them set true.
- Use the bay as a template: For slotted posts, drop in a panel and gravel board to position the next post. For timber posts, clamp a spacer to maintain the clear gap.
- Repeat with checks: Re-check spacing every 2–3 bays to avoid cumulative error, especially around corners or steps.
Why Buy From East Coast Fencing?
We’ve supplied over 200,000 fence panels across the UK, with 15,000+ reviews averaging 4.9/5. Whether you need a quick weekend refresh or you’re planning a full boundary replacement, you’ll find dependable stock, fair pricing, and friendly support. Explore the ranges mentioned here:
- Fence posts including wooden and concrete.
- Fence panels from waney lap to hit-and-miss and contemporary slatted.
- Gravel boards in timber and concrete.
- Screws, fixings & fasteners and ironmongery.
- Rails and boards for in-situ builds: cant rails, square rails, feather edge boards.
Wrap-Up: The Rule to Remember
For most UK gardens using 1.83 m panels, the “magic number” is simple: 1.83 m clear gap between posts (or 1.93 m centres with 100 mm posts). Adjust tighter for wind, taller fences, or contemporary slatted styles—and pair sensible spacing with the right post size, foundation depth, and protective details. Do that, and your fence will stay straight, strong, and smart for years.
Ready to get started? Pick your posts, choose your panels, add gravel boards and postmix, and you’re set. If you’d like a quick sense-check on your layout, drop us the run length, fence type, and exposure—we’ll help you nail the spacing first time.