Installing a new fence is one of the most transformative projects you can tackle in a British garden. Done well, it boosts privacy and security, frames planting, quietens wind, and raises kerb appeal—all in a weekend or two. This definitive, step-by-step guide takes you from first measurements to the final cap, with pro tips for panels, posts, rails, gates, and trellis. We’ll link to dependable components from East Coast Fencing along the way so you can spec confidently and buy once.
Whether you’re fitting classic closeboard fence panels, a quick refresh with waney lap panels, or a contemporary run of double slatted panels, the sequence below keeps things true, plumb, and built to last.
Before You Start: Planning, Lines & Permissions
Fences sit on boundaries—get this part right. Confirm ownership, height expectations, and any covenants. In most UK domestic settings, garden fences are permitted development up to specified heights, but always check local rules and, where needed, talk to your neighbour before work begins.
- Choose a style: For full privacy and robustness, pick heavy duty closeboard or ultra heavy duty closeboard. For a lighter, modern feel, explore single slatted or hit & miss. Want pattern and light? See decorative panels and omega lattice panels.
- Pick your post type: For maximum longevity and wind resistance, go concrete posts. Prefer a unified timber look? Choose wooden fence posts and seal cut ends during installation.
- Protect the panel base: Add gravel boards to keep timber clear of soil splash; pick concrete for ultimate durability or timber for visual continuity.
Tools & Materials: What You’ll Actually Use
| Category | Items | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Fencing | Fence panels, trellis, panel capping, cant rails | Match height and style across the run |
| Structure | concrete posts or timber posts, gravel boards | Select length for dig depth + height |
| Fixings | exterior screws & fixings, hinges, latches, brackets | Galvanised or stainless where exposed |
| Foundations | post mix or cement, compactable aggregate | Plan 1–2 bags post mix per hole |
| Tools | String line, stakes, spade, post hole digger, level, saw, drill/driver, tape, mallet | Add PPE: gloves, boots, glasses |
| Gates | garden gate, gate posts, gate furniture | Allow extra width for hinges & latch |
Step 1: Survey, Measure & Mark a True Line
Clear a working corridor along the boundary. Pull out tired shrubs and set aside any reusable posts or panels. Tap stakes at the corners and stretch a tight string line at the proposed face of the posts. This string is now your truth—every hole, post, and panel references it.
- Panel count: Standard panels are typically 1.83m wide; measure the total length and calculate panels plus a gate bay if required.
- Service check: Scan for underground services; adjust line if needed to keep safe working distances.
- Ground levels: If the garden slopes, decide to step panels or keep the top line level and let gaps vary—see “Working on Slopes”.
Step 2: Choose Posts, Gravel Boards & Topper Strategy
In exposed sites, concrete posts plus concrete gravel boards create a resilient backbone. In sheltered gardens, timber posts with timber gravel boards offer a unified, warm look. To add height without turning the fence into a wind sail, plan for a fence topper trellis section; this softens edges and gives climbers a home.
Step 3: Set Out Post Centres
Mark post centres at one panel width apart (allowing for post slot thickness if using slotted concrete posts). Avoid creeping measurements by measuring from the previous mark each time, not leapfrogging. Spray paint or pegs help keep the dig tidy and consistent.
Step 4: Dig Post Holes—Depth, Diameter & Drainage
Post holes should be deep and wide enough to resist wind and frost heave. As a rule of thumb, dig to at least 600mm for 1.8m fences, wider for exposed plots. Bell (widen) the bottom a touch for stability and throw a shovel of compacted aggregate in first for drainage.
| Fence Height | Typical Hole Depth | Typical Hole Diameter | Post Length | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0.9m–1.2m | 450mm–550mm | 200mm–250mm | 1.8m | Sheltered sites |
| 1.5m–1.8m | 600mm–700mm | 250mm–300mm | 2.4m | Typical garden runs |
| 1.8m + Trellis | 700mm–750mm | 300mm | 2.7m | Exposed or soft ground |
| Gates | 700mm–800mm | 300mm+ | As required | Heavier loading at hinges |
If digging is impractical (services, tree roots, hardstanding), consider post spikes and supports for light-duty runs such as picket fence panels.
Step 5: Concrete the Corner Posts First
Corner and end posts set the geometry. Drop the first post in, align to the string line, and brace off temporary rails. Pour post mix or mixed concrete and tamp to remove voids. Check plumb two ways. Repeat at the other end of the run. Let these cure sufficiently so they won’t creep when you add tension.
- Slotted concrete posts: Set to exact height now; later, panels and gravel boards simply slide in.
- Timber posts: Overshoot post height a little; final trim comes after capping for a crisp line.
Step 6: Install Intermediate Posts to a Tight Line
Run a high string between the cured corner posts to mark post tops; run a low string for face alignment if not using slotted posts. Set each intermediate post, checking plumb and height against the strings. Backfill with mixed concrete or post mix in lifts, ensuring the top slopes away from timber for water shedding.
Step 7: Fit Gravel Boards
With posts in and curing, install gravel boards. In slotted systems, drop a concrete gravel board into the slots first; in timber systems, screw a timber gravel board to the posts on packers so it sits level and clear of soil. Gravel boards protect panels from splashback and keep bottoms straight.
Step 8: Install Panels or Build Closeboard In-Situ
Pre-built panels: Slide or fix panels between posts. Use stainless or galvanised fixings from our screws & fixings range. Keep a consistent top line and equal gaps at post faces.
Site-built closeboard: For the toughest runs, fix cant rails between posts, then nail or screw feather edge boards with the correct overlap. Finish with panel capping for a weather-shedding top.
- Modern slats: Horizontal lines need perfect spacing—use a spacer block and consider timber battens to form crisp, even joints.
- Decorative panels: Integrate trellis panels or horizontal slatted trellis near seating for light and airflow.
Step 9: Cap, Seal & Detail
Water sits on flat surfaces—shed it. Fit panel capping across the tops for a neat finish and to protect exposed end grain. On bespoke closeboard, capping and cant rails significantly extend service life. Seal all cut ends before assembly and again after trimming the post tops.
Step 10: Add a Gate the Right Way
Plan the gate bay before you set posts: hinge post holes should be deeper and larger in diameter, especially for wide or heavy gates. Choose a matching garden gate—from decorative gates to robust feather edge gates—and pair with dedicated gate posts. Hang with quality ironmongery and the right latches and bolts.
- Clearances: Leave uniform gaps at hinge and latch sides; allow for swelling if the gate is timber.
- Threshold: Maintain ground clearance for winter drag and ensure water drains away from the opening.
Working on Slopes: Step or Rake?
On gradual slopes, you can “rake” slatted or hit-and-miss styles to follow the ground line; solid panels are usually “stepped”. Keep post tops in a clean, consistent line for a professional finish, even when panels step. Where gaps below stepped panels become large, consider subtle sleeper edging to retain soil and block pets.
Wind, Light & Trellis Toppers
Solid fences catch wind; trellis eases loading and looks lighter. If you’re aiming for 1.8m plus extra screening, use a 1.5m solid panel with a 0.3m fence topper trellis or privacy square trellis. For decorative accents near patios, try fan trellis to frame climbers.
Fixings & Hardware: Small Parts, Big Difference
Outdoors, fixings are a durability bottleneck. Use galvanised or stainless fasteners for exposed connections and choose hinges and latches sized for the job. Stock up before you start to avoid mid-build delays with our reliable screws & fixings and broad ironmongery range.
Quality Checks: A Professional Finish
- Alignment: Stand back at 5–10m and sight along the top and front lines; adjust before fixing off.
- Heights: Keep tops consistent. On timber posts, trim after fitting capping for a razor-straight silhouette.
- Drainage: All concrete tops should fall away from timber.
- End grain: Every cut edge sealed. Don’t skip this—water always finds the weak point.
Troubleshooting: Real-World Fixes
- Posts wobble in soft ground: Enlarge holes, add bell bottoms, and upsize to concrete posts. Consider an extra intermediate post on long bays.
- Panel bottoms wicking water: Add or replace gravel boards; keep mulch and soil pulled back.
- Uneven panel steps on slopes: Re-shoot heights with a laser or water level; trim posts after capping to harmonise the skyline.
- Gate drops or binds: Upgrade hinges, add a drop bolt, and check the hinge post isn’t creeping; deepen and widen the hinge post footing if needed.
Maintenance: Protect Your Investment
Little-and-often care keeps fences smart and sturdy. Rinse salt and grime on coastal or urban plots, re-coat breathable finishes as required, and check fixings after heavy weather. Replace any damaged caps and re-seal fresh cuts immediately.
| Interval | Action | Outcome |
|---|---|---|
| After Storms | Check post plumb, tighten fixings, clear debris | Prevents creep and wind damage |
| Quarterly | Wash down panels; inspect caps and rails | Keeps finishes clean and water-shedding |
| Annually | Touch-in sealant on cuts; renew timber coatings | Extends service life and colour |
Build Sequence at a Glance
- Confirm boundary, style, height, and permissions; order components.
- Clear line; string a true face line; mark post centres.
- Dig holes; set corner/end posts; allow to cure.
- Set intermediate posts to strings; concrete and plumb.
- Install gravel boards; check levels.
- Fit panels or build closeboard; fix with exterior fixings.
- Add capping, rails, and any trellis toppers.
- Hang gate; fit latch and bolts; set thresholds.
- Trim post tops; seal cuts; final clean and alignment check.
Optional: Timeline & Effort (Illustrative)
Every site is different, but this gives a rough sense of where time goes on a typical 10–15m run with two people.
Tip: Front-load accuracy on set-out and posts—the rest flies together when heights and plumb are spot on.
Style-Specific Pointers
- Closeboard strength: Use three cant rails for 1.8m runs and keep fixings staggered to avoid splits in feather edge boards.
- Slatted elegance: Keep consistent gaps. Pair with double slatted panels in windy plots so air can pass through.
- Decorative definition: Use omega lattice bays near patios to let sunlight through while softening views.
- Picket charm: A front garden can be lifted with picket panels and picket pales over square rails for tidy alignment.
Safety & Good Practice
- Wear gloves, boots, and eye protection; use hearing protection for extended cutting.
- Lift with legs, not backs; get help for concrete posts and long panels.
- Check for underground services before you dig; never assume.
- Keep a tidy site—tools parked, holes guarded, and materials stacked safely.
Why Buy From East Coast Fencing
With 200,000+ panels supplied and a 4.9/5 service backed by 15,000+ reviews, East Coast Fencing is trusted by homeowners, landscapers, and stockists for reliability, value, and craftsmanship. Explore the full range to build smarter and finish beautifully: fence panels, posts (concrete or timber), gravel boards (concrete or timber), trellis, gates with matching posts, durable cement products, and the finishing details in ironmongery and screws & fixings.
Ready to Build?
Measure carefully, set posts true, and let the details do the heavy lifting—gravel boards, capping, and quality fixings turn a good fence into a great one. Choose your panels, sort your posts and boards, and make your boundary the backbone your garden deserves.