Thinking about installing a new fence yourself? Good news: most UK homeowners can achieve a smart, durable fence over a weekend or two with the right planning, tools and components. This guide gives you a clear, no-nonsense path from preparation to finishing touches—plus insider tips to avoid common pitfalls. Along the way, we’ll show you exactly which parts to buy (and why), link to the correct sizes in our range, and share trade techniques for straight lines, level tops and a fence that lasts.
Quick answer
Yes—you can absolutely install a fence yourself. Choose quality panels, the right posts and gravel boards, set your posts correctly in concrete, and keep everything aligned with a taut string line. For the fastest DIY, use slotted concrete fence posts and drop-in panels with concrete gravel boards. If you prefer a warmer all-timber look, pick wooden fence posts and screw-fix the panels. Either way, keeping timber off the ground and finishing with capping will dramatically increase lifespan.
Before you start: plan, check, measure
- Confirm boundaries: Agree the line with neighbours before digging. Sketch your run and mark corners, changes of direction and gate positions.
- Know the heights: In most rear gardens you can go up to 2.0m overall; next to a vehicular highway it’s typically 1.0m. If in doubt, check local guidance.
- Measure the distance: Most panels are 1.83m wide; divide your run by 1.83m to estimate the number of bays. Allow for partial bays at the ends or around obstacles.
- Decide the system: Concrete posts for maximum longevity and straightness, or timber posts for a cohesive timber look and easier trimming on site.
- Think neighbour-friendly: If a 1.8m solid panel feels imposing by a patio, many households choose 1.5m solid plus 0.3m trellis toppers for a lighter skyline.
Choose your fence style
Pick the panel that suits your privacy needs, wind exposure and architecture. Our most popular categories are below; they all slot into standard 1.83m posts:
- Closeboard fence panels for classic full privacy and strength (see the staple 6×6ft closeboard panel).
- Waney lap fence panels for value-led privacy in sheltered plots.
- Double slatted panels or hit-and-miss panels for windy sites and contemporary lines.
- Decorative fence panels for front-of-house style or garden “rooms”.
System components (the durable trio)
- Posts: concrete fence posts (straight, long-lasting, slot-in) or timber posts (warm look, easy to trim). For gates, use dedicated gate posts.
- Gravel boards: concrete gravel boards or wooden gravel boards to keep panels off soil and stop splash-back.
- Finishing & fixings: panel capping to shed water, plus exterior-grade screws, fixings & fasteners and brackets & fittings. For post footings, see cement products.
DIY vs hiring a pro (which suits you?)
| Factor | DIY Install | Hire a Professional |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | Save on labour; pay for materials only | Higher upfront; predictable total and faster delivery |
| Speed | Weekend or two depending on length | Typically 1–3 days for standard runs |
| Tools/skills | Basic carpentry, safe concreting, measuring | Handled by installer; trade tools included |
| Finish | Excellent with care and planning | Consistently straight lines and neat details |
| Aftercare | You own the maintenance and adjustments | Often includes workmanship guarantees |
Shopping list templates
Standard 6ft privacy bay (drop-in, concrete posts)
- 1 × Panel (e.g., 6×6ft closeboard panel)
- 1 × Post (e.g., 8ft concrete intermediate post)
- 1 × Base (e.g., 12″ concrete gravel board)
- Fixings & finish (string line, post concrete, panel capping)
Neighbour-friendly run (5ft solid + 1ft topper)
- 1 × 6×5ft panel plus 1 × 1ft topper (e.g., 0.3m privacy square trellis)
- 1 × Post (as above) and 1 × base (timber board or concrete)
- Fixings & finish (brackets, capping)
How many bays and posts do I need?
Divide your boundary length (in metres) by 1.83 to estimate bays. Count one post per bay plus one extra at the end (corner and end posts may differ). If your line changes direction, include appropriate end and corner posts from the concrete posts category or size your timber posts to suit.
Post length and hole depth guide
| Panel Height | Typical Post Length | Typical Burial Depth |
|---|---|---|
| 4ft (1.2m) | 6ft (1.8m) | ~2ft (600mm) |
| 5ft (1.5m) | 7ft (2.1m) | ~2–2.25ft (600–675mm) |
| 6ft (1.83m) | 8ft (2.4m) | ~2.5ft (750mm) |
Tip: In very exposed locations, go a size longer on posts and bury a little deeper. A bell-shaped base to the hole improves pull-out resistance.
Tools you’ll genuinely use
- Tape measure, pencil, spray paint for hole marks, and a taut string line for tops
- Post hole digger/spade, digging bar, and a hand tamper
- Level (600mm), set square and wedges/packing
- Handsaw or circular saw for minor trims; end-grain preservative for any timber cuts
- Work gloves, safety glasses, and dust mask when working with concrete
Step-by-step: installing with concrete posts (fastest DIY)
- Set out and mark holes: Measure your first bay (1.83m centre-to-centre). Spray mark hole positions. Run a string line to define the fence line and a separate line at finished top height for reference.
- Dig holes: Aim for at least 600–750mm deep depending on height and exposure. Make the base slightly wider than the neck (a “bell” shape) for stability.
- Position the first post: Stand your first 8ft concrete intermediate post in the hole, align to the string line, and plumb it with the level. Brace temporarily with battens if needed.
- Concrete the post: Use fast-setting post concrete per instructions. Check plumb both ways while it sets. Keep the slot orientation true to your panel line.
- Set the second post and base: Fit a concrete gravel board into the first post slot and rest the other end in the second post’s slot as you set that post plumb. The board acts as a perfect datum for the bay.
- Drop in the panel: Once the second post is stable enough, slide your panel into the slots, keeping fingers clear. Rinse and repeat along the run, working bay by bay.
- Finish the line: Fit panel capping where appropriate and check each bay for level and alignment.
Step-by-step: installing with timber posts (warm, cohesive look)
- Set post positions: Mark your centres at 1.83m and run a string line. Dig holes as above.
- Install posts: Concrete each timber post plumb, minding the fence face line. Treat any cut ends with end-grain preservative before fixing.
- Fit the gravel board: Use a wooden gravel board fixed to the posts or a concrete board with brackets.
- Fix panels: Offer up each panel; use galvanised brackets or exterior screws from our screws & fixings range. Keep the top line consistent; fit capping to finish.
Adding trellis (privacy without heaviness)
Trellis toppers are a smart way to lift privacy while keeping light and airflow. Popular choices include privacy square trellis for subtle screening and slatted trellis for contemporary lines. Match heights to your panels: for example, a 1.5m panel topped with a 0.3m privacy trellis looks balanced and typically sits within 2.0m overall. For full-height screens, explore 1.2–1.83m sizes like the 1.83m privacy square trellis.
Working on slopes and awkward ground
- Step the fence: The simplest DIY approach is to step panels so each bay remains level even as ground drops. Keep the steps even and use gravel boards to fill any small gaps beneath panels.
- Raked panels: If you need a continuous top line without steps, use in-situ closeboard (built from boards and rails) or trim panels carefully and seal any cut ends.
- Wildlife corridors: Consider our hedgehog-hole gravel board where appropriate to allow hedgehog movement under long runs.
Windy sites: design for airflow
In exposed gardens, reduce wind loading by choosing air-permeable styles such as double slatted or hit-and-miss panels, and pair them with concrete posts and concrete boards for maximum stability.
Gate basics (and where to put them)
Position gates for natural flow to paths and patios and hang from dedicated gate posts. Avoid hanging a heavy gate on a standard intermediate fence post. Explore our garden gates and finish with reliable gate furniture (hinges, latches, bolts).
Typical mistakes to avoid
- Shallow post holes: Leads to wobble and lean—respect the depth guide and bell the base.
- No gravel board: Timber in contact with soil ages rapidly. Always lift panels clear.
- Wavy top line: A missing string line is the usual culprit—run one and sight along it regularly.
- Rushing the first bay: The first bay sets everything. Take time to get it plumb, square and level; the rest will follow.
- Using indoor fixings: Non-galvanised fixings corrode outdoors. Use exterior-rated screws and brackets.
- Ignoring cut-end treatment: If you trim timber, seal cuts with end-grain preservative.
DIY fence cost factors (and how to stretch the budget)
| Decision | Budget Impact | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Post type | Concrete costs more than timber upfront | Concrete often pays back in longevity and straightness |
| Panel style | Waney lap cheaper; closeboard/slatted cost more | Mix value panels on long runs and decorative near patios |
| Gravel boards | Concrete pricier than timber | Concrete saves future replacements and keeps lines true |
| Trellis toppers | Small uplift | Use toppers where privacy matters most to minimise spend |
Safety and good site practice
- Services: Know where buried cables/pipes are before digging. If uncertain, consult utility plans or a cable avoidance tool.
- Manual handling: Panels and posts are heavy; lift with a second person where possible.
- Cement: Wear gloves and eye protection; avoid skin contact with wet concrete.
- Sawing & drilling: Eye protection, dust control and stable work support are essential.
Finishing touches that elevate the look
- Panel capping: Simple, effective upgrade—adds a crisp shadow line and sheds water (shop capping).
- Trellis sections near seating: Swap a solid bay for trellis to invite climbing plants and light.
- Consistent posts: Use the same post type throughout long runs for a professional, unified look.
Frequently asked questions
How long will a DIY fence take?
A straightforward 6–8 bay run (around 11–15m) with concrete posts is commonly a weekend job for two confident DIYers—day one for holes and posts, day two for boards and panels. Timber post systems take similar time if you’re organised with fixings.
What height should I choose?
Rear gardens typically go 1.8m (6ft). If you want a softer look, use 1.5m solid panels with a 0.3–0.45m topper such as privacy square trellis. In front gardens or next to a road, 1.0m is the usual limit.
Which is stronger: concrete or timber posts?
Concrete posts are extremely durable and keep lines straighter on long runs. Timber posts still perform brilliantly when set correctly and look cohesive with timber fencing—choose pressure-treated posts and respect burial depths.
Do I really need gravel boards?
Yes. Gravel boards keep timber panels away from damp soil splash-back, help level the base and make future panel swaps easier. Choose from wooden or concrete options.
Can I add a trellis later?
Absolutely. You can retrofit toppers to many panel systems using brackets and capping. Explore sizes from 0.3m to 0.6m in our fence topper trellis selection or full-height screens in trellis panels.
What about corners, ends and gates?
Plan these from the start. Use the correct corner/end concrete posts or size timber posts appropriately; hang gates from gate posts and fit quality gate furniture.
Worked example: planning a 12m rear boundary
- Measure & count bays: 12m ÷ 1.83 ≈ 6.56 → plan for 6 full bays plus one part bay or 7 bays with a trimmed panel.
- Choose system: You pick closeboard panels with concrete posts and concrete boards for longevity.
- Materials: 7 × 6×6ft closeboard panels, 8 × 8ft concrete posts (one extra for the end), 7 × 12″ concrete boards, post concrete, string, wedges, and capping.
- Set posts: Start at one corner, set the first two posts with the board between them for a perfect datum, then progress bay by bay.
- Top line & finish: Sight along your string line, cap the panels and tidy the site. Consider a short trellis return at the patio using 0.6m slatted trellis for filtered light.
Care and maintenance (simple but important)
- Keep clear at the base: Don’t mound soil against panels. Gravel or paving at the base reduces splash-back.
- Trim vegetation: Prune back climbers and hedges that trap moisture against timber.
- Annual check: After winter winds, walk the line: re-plumb any minor lean early and tighten fixings if needed.
Why buy from East Coast Fencing?
We supply top-quality, pressure-treated components trusted by retail, trade and stockist customers—backed by our 4.9/5-rated service and thousands of reviews. With over 200,000 fence panels sold, we make DIY fencing straightforward: panels that fit, posts that line up, and boards that protect your investment. Explore the full system: fence panels, concrete posts, wooden posts, gravel boards, capping, ironmongery and fixings.
The bottom line
You can install a fence yourself with confidence. Plan the run, set posts deep and true, protect the base with gravel boards and finish with capping. Choose concrete posts for the quickest drop-in system, or timber posts for a cohesive all-wood look. Add trellis where you want light and planting—try privacy square trellis for subtle screening—and consider airflow panels in windy spots. When you’re ready, build your basket from our curated categories and enjoy a fence that looks great, performs reliably and stands the test of British weather.