Choosing the right timber fence posts is the difference between a fence that looks smart for years and one that leans, sags or rots before its time. Whether you’re replacing a few bays or planning a completely new boundary, this guide walks you through everything—from timber sizes and treatments to footing depths, post spacing, installation methods, and the small details that make a big difference. You’ll also find quick-reference tables, best-practice tips from the trade, and links to proven components from East Coast Fencing so you can shop with confidence.
Why timber fence posts remain the UK’s favourite
Timber posts deliver a classic look, they’re easy to work with using standard tools, and they pair beautifully with any panel style—from closeboard fence panels to waney lap fence panels and decorative designs. Compared with steel or concrete, timber posts are lighter to handle on site and simple to trim for gates, corners and level changes. With modern pressure treatment, quality softwood posts provide years of service—especially when they’re kept clear of standing water using gravel boards and capped correctly.
Quick glossary: the parts of a post-and-panel fence
- Posts: The vertical supports. For timber, common sections are 75×75mm (3×3) and 100×100mm (4×4). Browse our full range of wooden fence posts.
- Panels: The infill between posts—closeboard, waney lap or decorative.
- Gravel boards: A timber or concrete board at ground level protecting panels and post bases; see wooden and concrete gravel boards.
- Capping: A top rail/trim that sheds water and finishes the look, e.g. brown capping or green capping.
- Fixings & brackets: Exterior-grade screws and optional security brackets—browse screws, fixings & fasteners.
- Post supports: Bolt-down shoes and spikes that allow above-ground installs on hardstanding; see fence post spikes & supports.
Timber fence post sizes and when to use them
Picking the correct section and length prevents movement and helps your fence ride out winter gales. As a rule of thumb, choose 75×75mm posts for light-duty runs and 100×100mm where loads are higher—corners, gates, exposed plots, tall fences and heavy panels.
Popular timber post sizes in our range
- 2.4m × 75×75mm Wooden Fence Post – Pressure Treated Brown — ideal for standard 1.5–1.8m fences in sheltered spots.
- 3.0m × 75×75mm Wooden Fence Post – Pressure Treated Green — extra embedment for sloping ground or higher loads.
- 2.4m × 100×100mm Wooden Fence Post – Pressure Treated Brown — dependable choice for gates and corners.
- 3.0m × 100×100mm Wooden Fence Post – Pressure Treated Brown — taller fences, exposed sites and extra-deep footings.
How long should the post be?
Add the fence height to the required bury depth. For most domestic runs, bury 600mm for fences up to 1.2m, and 750–900mm for 1.5–1.8m fences, depending on soil and exposure. On very soft ground, go deeper and/or step up to 100×100mm posts. If you’re mounting posts with bolt-down shoes on a slab, your post length is essentially the fence height plus any capping or decorative detail—no ground embedment required.
Pressure treatment: brown vs green
All our timber posts are pressure-treated to resist rot and decay. You’ll see two finish options: brown and green. Both are treated for outdoor durability; the difference is largely aesthetic. Brown reads warmer against closeboard and waney lap panels, while green pairs nicely with contemporary decorative fencing or when you plan to stain later. If you’re building a gate opening, match posts to your garden gate and any gate posts for a cohesive look.
Timber vs concrete fence posts
Concrete posts are a brilliant choice for ultimate longevity and low maintenance. If that’s your direction, browse the category here: concrete fence posts, including popular sizes like the 2.4m intermediate and 2.7m intermediate. Timber posts, meanwhile, keep weight down, are easy to trim, and visually soften the boundary. Many customers choose a hybrid: concrete posts with timber gravel boards for warmth—or timber posts with concrete gravel boards for extra base protection.
How many posts do you need?
Most fence bays in the UK are 1.83m (6ft) wide. Count the number of bays along your run and add one extra post for the far end—plus any extra for corners, changes of direction and gates.
| Run Length (Approx) | Standard Bays (1.83m) | Posts Required | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| ~9.15m | 5 bays | 6 posts | Add 1 post for end; add 1 per corner |
| ~12.81m | 7 bays | 8 posts | Order 1 spare if cutting bays |
| ~18.30m | 10 bays | 11 posts | Corners need end/corner details |
Post spacing and layout
Keep centres at 1.83m to match standard panels and gravel boards. If your site has a tree, shed or awkward return, plan a shorter bay at a corner or near a gate where it’s less noticeable. Dry-lay panels on the ground to visualise the run and check gate positions. Where you meet a wall, fix a closing post to the masonry using appropriate anchors and keep it plumb.
Footing depth and hole dimensions
A good footing is non-negotiable. The higher the fence and the windier the plot, the deeper and wider the footing. Shallow footings are the most common cause of leaning fences after storms.
| Fence Height | Suggested Bury Depth | Typical Hole Diameter | Post Section | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 0.9–1.2m | ~600mm | 250–300mm | 75×75mm | Sheltered plots only |
| 1.5m | ~750mm | 300–350mm | 75×75mm or 100×100mm | Step up section if exposed |
| 1.8m | ~900mm | 350–400mm | 100×100mm | Use stronger posts at corners |
Timber post installation: two proven methods
1) In-ground with concrete
This is the most common approach for garden boundaries. Dig holes to the recommended depth, flare the bottom slightly, and set posts in concrete. Check each post is plumb both ways before the mix sets. Keep the top of the concrete domed away from the post to shed water and avoid pooling at the timber-concrete interface. Fit gravel boards so panels and post ends sit off the soil.
Fixings you’ll find useful: 5.0×75mm screws, 5.0×50mm screws, and for heavier framing, 5.0×100mm screws. To deter panel lifting, consider a fence panel security bracket.
2) Above-ground using post supports
On patios, decks or driveways, bolt-down post shoes make light work of a secure, removable installation. Mark out, drill the slab, fix the shoe, then drop the post into the sleeve and clamp tight. Choose the shoe size that matches your post section.
- Bolt-Down Post Support 75mm × 75mm — for light runs and short screens.
- Bolt-Down Post Support 100mm × 100mm — for taller fences and gate posts.
When to choose concrete posts instead
If your plot is very exposed, you want slotted posts for easy panel swaps, or you simply prefer ultra-low maintenance, concrete is a strong candidate. Explore the concrete posts range, including 1.8m, 2.4m and 2.7m intermediates, plus end posts and corner posts for neat transitions.
Don’t forget gravel boards
Gravel boards keep timber out of splashback zones and significantly extend service life. They also give you a level datum even on uneven ground and make fence repairs easier down the line.
- 6" Smooth Concrete Gravel Board — light protection with a clean look.
- 12" Smooth Concrete Gravel Board — maximum splash and soil deflection.
- 1.83m × 150mm Wooden Gravel Board – Brown — warmer aesthetic to complement timber posts.
Designing corners, ends and gates
Corner and end conditions create concentrated loads. With timber posts, step up to 100×100mm sections and deepen the footing where possible. For concrete systems, use purpose-made corner and end posts. Gate openings should always use heavy-duty posts; the 100×100mm timber post is a dependable choice—match to your garden gates and any dedicated gate posts for a cohesive finish.
Step-by-step: installing timber fence posts
- Plan the line: Mark your boundary with string lines. Identify corners, gates and any changes of level. Dry-lay panels to confirm bay count and reduce cutting.
- Mark post centres: Standard centres are 1.83m. Adjust one bay near a corner, gate or wall if the run doesn’t divide evenly.
- Dig holes: Use a post hole digger or auger to the target depth. Bell out the base slightly for a wider footing.
- Set the first post: Plumb it both ways, pour the concrete and form a small fall away from the post to shed water.
- Fit gravel boards: Install gravel boards level from the first to second post—this becomes your datum.
- Continue the run: Alternate posts and panels, checking level and plumb as you go. Use exterior-grade fixings such as 5.0×75mm screws.
- Cap and finish: Fit capping for a professional look and better run-off.
- Planting and ties: If your fence supports climbers or trellis, use soft ties and avoid constricting the bark of nearby shrubs or trees.
Choosing between 75×75mm and 100×100mm posts
Still torn between post sections? Use the matrix below as a quick rule-of-thumb guide. When in doubt, go up a size—the incremental cost is small compared with the labour of replacing under-spec’d posts.
| Scenario | Fence Height | Exposure | Recommended Section | Example Product |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Typical back garden | 1.5m | Sheltered | 75×75mm | 2.4m 75×75mm Brown |
| Patio with screen | 1.8m | Moderate | 100×100mm | 2.4m 100×100mm Brown |
| Corner and gate post | 1.8m | Exposed | 100×100mm (deep set) | 3.0m 100×100mm Brown |
Fixings, brackets and neat details
Use exterior-grade screws throughout. Our trade-favourite options include 5.0×75mm wood screws for rails and capping, 5.0×50mm for lighter duties and 5.0×100mm where extra bite is needed. To deter casual removal of panels, add a fence panel security bracket on the garden side of the post. Finish every run with panel capping for a crisp, water-shedding top line.
Timber post care and longevity
Modern, pressure-treated posts are made for the British climate, but small habits extend their life:
- Keep timber off the ground: Fit gravel boards so splashback and soil don’t sit against panels or the post base.
- Shed water at the base: Float the concrete a few millimetres above surrounding soil and slope it away from the post.
- Annual check-over: After winter, re-tighten screws, replace any split capping and spot-repair cosmetic damage.
- Maintain airflow: Avoid planting vigorous shrubs directly against posts; climbers are fine if they aren’t trapping damp.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Undersized posts for tall fences: A 1.8m fence with 75×75mm posts in an exposed spot will struggle—step up to 100×100mm and deepen the footing.
- Skipping gravel boards: This invites wet rot at the most vulnerable point. Fit timber or concrete boards first.
- Shallow footings: Leaning fences almost always trace back to insufficient depth or poor concrete compaction.
- Poor alignment: Set a string line, check plumb in both directions and sight along the caps for a straight, professional finish.
- Mismatched accessories: Keep finishes consistent—brown posts with brown capping, and matching wooden gravel boards for a cohesive look.
Working around slopes and steps
On sloping sites, step panels to follow the gradient. Posts at each step should be taller to accommodate the change in level; that’s where 3.0m lengths earn their keep. Keep all caps in a straight line relative to each stepped bay and ensure gravel boards land level to protect panel edges. Where ground falls steeply, consider a retaining upstand behind a concrete gravel board to keep soil off the timber.
Upgrading an existing fence with new posts
If panels are sound but posts have failed, you can renew posts while reusing panels. Work one bay at a time to maintain stability. Brace neighbouring bays, dig out the failed post, set the replacement, and re-hang the panel. This is a prime use-case for sturdy 100×100mm posts—e.g. 2.4m 100×100mm—so the new structure outlasts the old.
Choosing panels to match your timber posts
Your post choice shapes the look of the entire boundary, so pair it with panels that complement the aesthetic. For a timeless, robust finish, go with closeboard panels (consider the heavy-duty or ultra heavy-duty options). For a softer, traditional feel, waney lap maintains privacy with a country-garden look. If your garden leans modern, browse decorative fence panels and add matching capping for a crisp finish.
Practical buying list (with links)
- Timber posts: Start with the category page—wooden fence posts. Popular picks include 2.4m 75×75mm, 2.4m 100×100mm and 3.0m 100×100mm.
- Gravel boards: 6" concrete, 12" concrete or 1.83m timber.
- Fixings: 5.0×75mm screws, 5.0×50mm, 5.0×100mm, and security brackets.
- Capping: brown capping or green capping.
- Post supports (if needed): 75mm bolt-down and 100mm bolt-down.
FAQs: timber fence posts
How deep should I bury a timber fence post?
As a guide: ~600mm for fences up to 1.2m; ~750mm for 1.5m; ~900mm for 1.8m. If your plot is exposed or the soil is soft, go deeper and consider 100×100mm posts.
What size post for a 6ft (1.8m) fence?
Use 100×100mm timber posts set around 900mm deep for most sites. In sheltered, well-drained gardens with lighter panels, robust 75×75mm may suffice—but 100×100mm remains the safer choice.
Do I need gravel boards with timber posts?
Yes. Gravel boards prevent splashback and soil contact, which accelerates decay. Choose concrete for maximum protection or timber for a warmer look.
Can I mix timber posts with concrete gravel boards?
Absolutely. It’s a popular hybrid that pairs the warmth of timber with the durability of concrete at ground level.
What’s the difference between brown and green posts?
Both are pressure-treated for outdoor durability. Brown has a richer tone out of the pack; green is lighter and often used where the fence will be stained later.
How far apart should fence posts be?
Set centres to match your panels—typically 1.83m. If you must shorten a bay, do it near a gate or corner so the visual rhythm remains consistent.
Should I use bolt-down shoes or set posts in concrete?
Use bolt-down shoes on solid hardstanding (patios, decks, slabs). For garden soil, setting posts in concrete provides the best stability.
Three ready-made timber post specs you can copy
- Sheltered suburban boundary (classic): 1.5m closeboard panels on 2.4m 75×75mm brown posts, 750mm embedment, 6" concrete gravel boards, brown capping.
- Exposed corner with gate (robust): 1.8m closeboard panels on 3.0m 100×100mm posts, 900mm embedment, 12" concrete boards, security brackets at gate bay.
- Courtyard screen on patio (no digging): 1.5m decorative panels on 100mm bolt-down shoes with 2.4m 100×100mm posts, timber gravel boards, matching capping.
Troubleshooting: common issues and quick fixes
- Post leans after heavy rain: Soil has softened around a shallow footing. Re-dig to recommended depth/diameter and re-set. Check you’re not trapping water at the base.
- Panels rattle in wind: Add intermediate rails or fit security brackets. Check screw length and bite.
- Timber greying or algae: Normal weathering; wash down annually with a soft brush and mild cleaner. Consider an exterior woodcare product after the first season if you want a specific tone.
- Inconsistent bay widths: Re-string the run, fix a straight gravel board line, and adjust one “sacrifice” bay near a corner or gate to hide the difference.
Thinking ahead: future repairs and upgrades
Well-planned posts make tomorrow’s maintenance simple. If you prefer tool-free panel swaps, consider concrete slotted posts; if you value easy trimming and a softer look, timber remains ideal. Plan spare conduit for lighting runs, leave a tidy expansion gap under panels, and use consistent hardware so replacements are straightforward in years to come.
Why buy your timber fence posts from East Coast Fencing?
- Trusted quality: Our pressure-treated posts are built for British weather and stocked in the sizes you actually need.
- One-stop shop: Pick up timber posts, gravel boards, fixings, post supports and capping in one delivery.
- Expert-friendly sizes: 75×75mm and 100×100mm posts in 1.8m, 2.4m and 3.0m lengths, plus matching accessories for corners, ends and gates.
- Exceptional service: 4.9/5-rated, with fast delivery and real-human support if you need a hand choosing the best spec.
Next steps
Measure your run, choose the right post section and length for your fence height and exposure, then build from the ground up with the correct gravel boards, fixings and caps. To get started, explore wooden fence posts, compare with concrete fence posts if you’re weighing options, and add the finishing touches from our gravel boards and fixings categories. If you’d like tailored advice, tell us your fence height, site exposure and whether you’re digging or using bolt-down shoes—we’ll point you to a rock-solid specification.