Help Centre

For 6 ft (1.8 m) fence panels we recommend 8 ft (2.4 m) posts so you have roughly 600 mm in the ground, giving enough leverage and strength for a full height boundary. Use either 100 x 100 mm timber posts or standard concrete slotted posts, set in holes around 200 to 250 mm wide with a little drainage gravel in the bottom, then backfill with quality post mix and finish the concrete just above ground, sloped away from the post so water runs off.

In most of England the general planning rule is that you can have a garden fence up to 2 metres high in your back garden without permission, but anything next to a highway used by vehicles (which usually includes the pavement at the front) is normally limited to 1 metre before you are likely to need planning consent, and separate from that your neighbour can object if a new fence is particularly overbearing or blocks light, even if it is under 2 metres, so it is always sensible to talk to neighbours first, check for any existing covenants or previous planning conditions on the property, and if you are unsure, confirm the position with your local planning authority before you commit to a taller fence.

Adding fence topper trellis above an existing solid fence can work well, as long as you treat it as a light extension rather than a climbable framework. Keep the solid section as your main security barrier, then use a relatively shallow band of trellis, for example 300–450 mm high, fixed firmly to the posts or capping. In most rear gardens the total height is typically around 2 m, so if you are increasing height check the usual local limits with your planning authority. For security, avoid big, open squares that act as handholds and instead choose tighter styles such as privacy square trellis or diamond trellis, fixed flush with the face of the fence so there are no convenient ledges to stand on. Softening the fence is mainly about planting and layout. Fence topper trellis lets light through and gives climbers something to grow into, so you can keep a solid base for privacy while breaking up the top edge with foliage. Use decent fixings into the posts, not just the panel, and do not overload the trellis with heavy planters or very thick, woody climbers unless you are sure the posts and concrete footings can take it. Keep a gravel board or small gap at the bottom of the fence so the main timber stays out of standing water, and if you are unsure about security or structure it is worth asking a local contractor to look at the fence before you start adding extra height.

Yes, you can fit trellis panels on top of standard fence panels, but the strength comes from the fence posts, not the panel. The best method is swapping to longer fence posts so the post continues up behind the trellis and you can fix trellis and panel back to solid timber. Post extensions can work for short runs, but they are always weaker in wind than a full length post. If the fence is already up and sound, you can add timber uprights behind the joins to support the trellis, but it is still a compromise compared with new posts. Use exterior grade screws and sturdy brackets from our ironmongery range, or coach bolts if you are fixing through thicker framing and want maximum hold. Aim to fix the trellis into the posts or uprights at both sides of each bay, not just into the top of the panel. Leave a small gap, around 5mm to 10mm, between the fence panel and the trellis to help water drain and to reduce rot where timber touches. For style, framed trellis panels are generally stronger and look neater for height, while square trellis is lighter and best where the run is more sheltered. To keep it level, run a tight string line along the top, set your first and last trellis to the line, then work along the run. On uneven ground, keep the trellis tops in a straight line and let the panels and gravel boards take up the change in ground level.

The trick is to bring the focus closer to you instead of staring at the garages. Put trellis on your side, on your own posts set in concrete just in front of the boundary, not fixed hard to old fences or neighbouring walls. A run of traditional trellis or privacy square trellis at roughly 1.8–2 m high, with a gravel board or small gap at the bottom, gives you something to grow into without feeling like a solid wall. If you only need height in a couple of key spots, use taller “screens” there and keep the rest lower so you do not lose too much light. Fan trellis works well on blank walls or fences nearer the patio, where a single plant can spread out and draw the eye away from anything ugly in the distance. Planting does most of the disguising. Use climbers with decent cover, for example evergreen or semi-evergreen, on the privacy square trellis where you want the strongest screening, then use lighter traditional trellis with more open planting where you still want sun through. Try to line the trellis up so that, from your main seating area, the top of the plants cuts across the worst of the view without blocking sky. Keep the structure independent of garages or extensions, check typical rear garden height limits with your local authority if you plan to go higher, and do not hang heavy planters or pergolas off the same posts. Regularly check fixings and keep timber off the ground so the screen stays safe and sound as everything grows.

The most secure way is to treat the trellis as a light fence on top of the wall, supported by posts rather than just screwing it straight into the brickwork. Fix short timber or metal posts along the top of the wall using bolt-down post shoes or heavy duty wall plates, anchored into the brick or concrete core with proper masonry fixings. Space the posts to suit the trellis panel widths, keep them plumb, and use decent exterior screws to fix the privacy square trellis panels to the posts, not just to small brackets on the wall. Aim for a modest trellis height, for example 300–600 mm above the wall, and check the typical local height limits for garden boundaries, which are usually around 2 m in total for rear gardens unless your local authority agrees otherwise. If the wall is old, low or not very straight, it can be better to put full-height posts in the ground just behind it and fix the trellis to those instead, so the wall is not taking extra wind load. Avoid drilling into loose or crumbling brick, and keep fixings out of mortar joints that are already weak. Run a capping piece along the top of any exposed timber and leave a little gap between the bottom of the trellis and the wall so water can drain and plants can be trained without holding damp against the brickwork. If you are unsure how strong the wall is, it is worth asking a local contractor to have a quick look before you commit to adding extra height.

Capping rails and post caps are not just decoration, they do have a practical benefit. The top of a panel and the cut end grain on posts are where water sits longest, which speeds up splitting and rot. A capping rail helps shed water off the top of closeboard fence panels and keeps the top edge straighter, which means fewer boards lifting over time. Post caps help protect the vulnerable top of the post and reduce how much water soaks straight down into the grain, so posts are less likely to crack open at the top. That said, they are only one part of the picture. Good quality pressure treated timber, posts set at the right depth in concrete, use of gravel boards to keep panels off the ground, and decent drainage around the base will all have a bigger impact on life expectancy. If budget is tight, prioritise solid posts, gravel boards and proper cement products first, then add capping and post caps where they are most visible, for example on main runs and by gates. If you can afford them, doing the whole run with capping and caps gives both a smarter finish and a modest boost to how long the fence stays in good condition.

If your fence posts are loose but the timber is still sound, the usual options are either to improve the footing or to add support rather than replace the whole post, which often saves time and cost; start by checking for rot at ground level by digging down around the base and probing the wood, and if it is solid you can enlarge the hole slightly and re concrete the post with fresh post mix, making sure it is packed all around and finished just above ground level so water runs off, or you can fit a concrete or metal repair spur alongside the existing post, bolting the two together so the spur takes the load while the old post simply carries the fence, which is especially useful on corners or gate posts. There are also in situ repair systems that sit in the ground around the post and lock it in place once set, but whichever method you choose, always set posts plumb, brace them while the repair cures and avoid simply wedging with loose rubble or soil, since that will usually move again once the weather turns wet and windy.

Most old fence timber is pressure treated, stained or painted, so it is not suitable for burning in a log burner, stove or pizza oven and is best avoided even in a garden fire pit. Burning treated or coated timber can release unpleasant fumes and fine particles, and you will also be left with ash that is not safe to use around the garden. Old posts and gravel boards often have embedded nails, brackets and concrete on the ends, which are dangerous in a fire and can damage stoves. Even if the timber has gone grey, assume it has been treated at some point unless you are absolutely certain it was supplied as untreated. The safest option for old fence panels, posts and gravel boards is to take them to a household recycling centre that accepts waste wood, or load them into a skip or waste bag from a licensed carrier. Cut down longer posts so they fit safely, stack panels flat, and remove as much concrete as you reasonably can so the load is manageable. If you have a few modern, clean offcuts that you know are completely untreated and unpainted, these can usually be burned like normal firewood, but that is the exception, not the rule. If you are unsure what your local site will accept, check your council’s guidance before you start loading the trailer.

For a side access gate a key locking long throw gate lock is usually the best choice, as it gives you a proper key cylinder outside, an easy thumb turn inside and a bolt that shoots deep into a keep on the post. You can pair this with a simple ring or latch set for day to day use, but the long throw lock provides the real security and keeps the gate usable from both sides.

You can often turn a fence panel into a matching gate, but it needs strengthening so it does not sag. Cut the panel to size, then build a proper gate frame around it using 75 x 50 mm or similar, with a diagonal brace from bottom hinge side to top latch side. Hang it on heavy tee hinges or hook and band hinges, fix a good latch and drop bolt, and use longer screws into a solid gate post rather than straight into a panel.

To stop a wooden garden gate sagging, start with a strong frame and posts, then support it correctly: use substantial gate posts (at least 100 x 100 mm timber or concrete), set deep in concrete and absolutely plumb, and hang the gate on quality hook and band or adjustable hinges fixed with coach screws or bolts rather than small screws, ideally using three hinges on taller or heavier gates. The gate itself should have a proper diagonal brace running from the bottom hinge side up to the top latch side (so it’s in compression under the gate’s weight), with the bottom rail kept clear of the ground and the latch side tying back firmly to a solid post; finish with a good latch and drop bolt to stop the gate being slammed against the hinges, and keep the timber treated and fixings tight so the gate stays square and supported over time.

It’s absolutely fine to grow a hedge in front of an existing fence, but it’s important to leave enough space so the plants don’t trap moisture against the timber or physically push the fence over as they mature; as a rule we suggest keeping the planting line at least 300-450 mm off the fence for smaller, slower growing hedges and 450-600 mm for stronger growers, which gives airflow, room for trimming and space for the hedge to fill out without crowding the boundary. Always plant on your side of the boundary and think about future maintenance - you’ll want to be able to get between hedge and fence, or at least reach over comfortably with trimmers – and if you’re choosing very vigorous species like laurel or leylandii, err on the generous side with spacing so the hedge and fence can both stay in good condition long term.

We can arrange delivery on an articulated lorry nationwide, but this is typically for stockist and trade customers who have a forklift on site for offloading. Artic delivery is a chargeable service and is usually booked as a full load to keep the delivery cost per unit sensible, and you will need suitable access, turning space and a firm area for the vehicle and forklift to operate safely.

For a gravel path running along a fence, we usually recommend installing a solid edging that also keeps the fence base out of constant contact with damp gravel. Concrete or timber gravel boards are ideal here: they form a neat, raised barrier that stops stones migrating into your fence line, while also lifting your fence panels or boards slightly clear of the ground to reduce the risk of rot. If your fence is already in place without gravel boards, you can still fit a low treated timber edging or concrete edging kerb a few inches away from the posts to contain the gravel. Whatever edging you choose, aim to leave a small maintenance gap between the fence and the gravel, lined with weed membrane, so water can drain freely and you are not burying the bottom of your posts or panels. This simple detail will help your gravel stay where it should, keep the fence cleaner, and extend the life of the timber.

Overlap panels use thin horizontal boards that “overlap” each other on a light frame, so they are a good budget option for sheltered, shorter runs but more prone to wind damage and sagging over time. Closeboard panels use vertical boards on a much heavier frame and are stronger, denser and easier to repair, which is why we normally recommend closeboard for main garden boundaries and exposed or long runs.

To replace a rotten fence post, first support the adjoining panels with temporary props or remove the affected panel so nothing drops when you take the post out, then dig around the base and break out the old concrete so you can remove the post and footing together or in pieces. Set a new pressure treated post in a hole around 200 to 250 mm wide and roughly 600 mm deep, drop a little drainage gravel in the bottom, pour fresh post mix around the post while it is held plumb, slope the concrete away from the timber at the top so water runs off, then refit the panel or rails once the mix has firmed up and finish with a gravel board if you do not already have one to keep the post base and panel off the soil.

Gravel boards are not strictly essential, but we strongly recommend them. Fixing timber fence panels directly at ground level leaves the boards sitting in wet soil, which speeds up rot and makes the fence look tired much sooner. A concrete or timber gravel board lifts the panel clear of the ground, protects it from strimmers and soil, helps deal with small level changes, and usually adds years to the life of a new fence.

For a typical domestic garden fence in England we usually allow around 1 to 1.5 bags of 20 kg post mix for a standard 75 x 75 mm timber post in a 1.8 metre fence, and 2 bags per hole for larger 100 x 100 mm timber posts or concrete posts, with corner, end and gate posts often needing 2 to 3 bags because the holes are slightly wider and deeper for extra stability; as a guide, you are aiming for a hole roughly 200 to 250 mm across and about 600 mm deep for a 1.8 metre fence, with the post set on firm ground, the concrete forming a good collar all around and finished just above the surface and sloped away from the post so water runs off, and it is always better to have a little extra post mix on hand rather than fall short on the last couple of posts.

For standard timber posts, the usual method is to fix each picket fence panel through its horizontal rails into the posts with exterior-grade wood screws. A good choice is 4.0–4.5 mm diameter, 50–75 mm long, in either stainless steel or green/galvanised coated decking screws so they will not rust and stain the timber. Use at least two screws per rail into each post, pre-drill near the ends of the rails to avoid splitting, and keep the panel a little off the ground or on a gravel board so the pickets are not sitting in water. If you prefer a more “modular” setup, you can use galvanised panel clips or angle brackets screwed to the posts first, then screw the panel rails to those. This makes it easier to lift a panel out later without chewing up the timber. For concrete posts, either slot purpose-made panels into the post recesses, or fix short timber battens to the face of the post with suitable masonry anchors and then screw the picket panels to those battens, again using exterior-grade screws.

In most cases you can slide new panels into existing concrete posts as long as the posts are sound, upright and set at standard centres for 1.83 metre panels, with slots that are not cracked or pinched. Check the distance between posts and the slot width, clear out any old debris on top of the gravel board, then drop the new panels in from above so they sit fully in both post grooves; if a bay is slightly tight you can trim the panel, but if posts are leaning, broken or loose in the ground it is better to replace those at the same time.

You can install fencing in winter, but very wet or frosty conditions need more care. Avoid digging in waterlogged holes that just fill with slurry and try to work on days when the ground is soft rather than saturated or frozen solid. Use quality post mix, keep water levels under control, protect fresh concrete from heavy rain and frost, and store panels off wet ground so they do not soak up moisture before you fit them.

For a low sleeper retaining wall next to a fence, build it as an independent structure so it is not pushing on the posts. Set sleepers on compacted hardcore, leave a small gap to the fence, and fix them together with long landscaping screws. Use vertical posts or rebar pins in front or between sleepers, set in concrete, so the wall is braced forward into the ground, then backfill with compacted soil and some drainage gravel, keeping all fixings off the fence.

Use sleepers as solid risers sitting on compacted hardcore, with each step screwed back into the one below and, on taller changes, fixed to short vertical posts set in concrete or rebar pins driven through pre drilled holes so nothing can creep forward. Fill behind and under treads with well compacted gravel for drainage, top the steps with slabs, gravel or deck boards, and keep the structure independent of nearby fence posts so the boundary is not carrying the weight of the steps.

For a standard timber fence you will want a tape measure, string line and spray paint for setting out, a spade and post hole digger, a club hammer and lump hammer, spirit level, handsaw or circular saw for trimming, and a cordless drill or impact driver with suitable bits and screws. A wheelbarrow, bucket or mixing tub for post mix and basic safety kit like gloves, eye protection and sturdy boots also make the job much easier and safer.

For a typical closeboard or panel fence, the most efficient and accurate method is to set one end or corner post in concrete, brace it plumb, then use the gravel board and first panel to position the next post before you concrete that one, effectively building the run bay by bay so the panels help fix your centres and keep everything in line; working this way avoids the extra effort and risk of movement that comes with setting all the posts first and trying to drop panels in afterwards. You don’t need to wait for the concrete to fully cure before fitting standard panels in this bay-by-bay process, provided each post is properly braced while the mix goes off, but gate posts are carrying much more leverage, so it is best practice to let those footings set firm before hanging a gate, typically a full 24 hours (longer in cold or wet weather), double-checking plumb and swing before fitting hardware.

For soft curves, use flexible treated edging boards or narrow sleepers fixed to short timber pegs at close centres, bending the board gradually to your marked line so there are no kinks. Set the pegs on the lawn or path side, screw through the edging into each peg and keep the top either flush with the grass for easy mowing or slightly proud for a defined path edge, tying neatly into nearby fence posts, gravel boards or patios for a clean, continuous look.

You can usually add trellis to the top of an existing fence as long as the total height stays within local planning limits, which in many parts of England is around 2 metres before you may need permission, so always check first. Use proper trellis extension brackets or longer posts rather than just screwing into thin capping, keep the trellis lighter than solid panels so it does not catch too much wind, and use galvanised fixings so everything stays secure while giving extra privacy and support for climbers.

For fence and deck lighting, use exterior rated low voltage LED kits with an IP65 or higher rating, and plan cable runs before you build so wires sit in conduit or notches in joists, never loose on the surface. Drill neat clearance holes for post or deck lights, keeping well clear of structural fixings, and use grommets where cables pass through timber. Always have a qualified electrician connect to the mains, using an RCD protected circuit and outdoor socket or driver.

For most front path gates it is usually better to open inwards into your garden, not out over the pavement. This avoids the gate swinging into pedestrians, gives you more control with children and pets, and is more secure because hinges and fixings are kept inside the property. Check where your steps, bins and parked cars sit, and make sure the gate can open fully without hitting anything. As a general rule you should not have a gate that opens out across a public footpath or into the highway, so if there is any doubt, check with your local council before you fix the hinges. Side gates into the back garden also normally open inwards toward the more private space, although on a tight passage you might choose the direction that gives you the clearest opening for moving bins and tools. Fit good quality hinges sized to at least half the width of the gate and make sure the posts are set solidly in concrete before you hang anything. Position latches so they are easy to reach from the house side but not obvious from the street, and allow enough ground clearance and swing so the gate does not scrape on slopes or block drains. If the ground rises sharply, consider rising hinges or trimming the bottom of the gate to keep everything moving freely.

Old concrete post footings can be removed either by digging and levering them out in one piece or by breaking them up in the ground, and the best method usually depends on how big they are and how much access you have; for smaller bases you can dig around all sides with a spade and digging bar, exposing enough of the block to get a heavy crowbar or post puller under it, then rock and lever it free, while for larger pads it is often quicker to break them in situ using a heavy duty breaker or sledgehammer after digging down the sides to give the concrete room to fracture, working methodically from the edges in and removing rubble as you go. If access is tight or there are services nearby, take extra care, hand dig around the footing first to check what is in the ground, and if the old base is very deep you can sometimes cut it off lower down and pour a new footing slightly offset, but in general the more of the old concrete you remove, the easier it is to set new posts at the correct depth and in firm, undisturbed ground.

If water is sitting along the bottom of your fence, the aim is to keep timber out of constant contact with wet ground and give the water somewhere free draining to go, which is why we usually suggest fitting gravel boards and then creating a narrow drainage strip along the fence line using coarse gravel or clean stone laid over a permeable weed membrane, sloping very slightly away from the fence if possible so surface water is encouraged to move off the base rather than sit against it. Where the ground is heavy or particularly wet you can improve this further by digging a simple trench 150 to 200 mm deep along the line, lining it with membrane and filling with gravel as a basic French drain, then keeping soil, bark and planting a little back from the fence so there is an air gap; this combination protects the bottom of panels and posts, helps rainwater soak away more quickly and reduces the risk of rot at the base of the fence.

Waney lap fence panels are still a sensible budget option for many back gardens, especially where cost is the main driver and the fence is not in a very exposed spot. Modern waney lap panels are pressure treated and lighter than closeboard, which makes them easier to handle and kinder on fence posts in windy conditions. They do the basic job of marking a boundary and giving privacy, but they rely on thinner timber and overlapping boards, so they are more likely to need attention sooner if boards split or lift over time. Closeboard fence panels cost more upfront, but they are generally stronger and last longer because they use thicker vertical boards fixed to heavier rails. They cope better with wind, knocks and everyday wear, which often makes them better value over the full life of the fence. If you are fencing a long run on a tight budget, waney lap panels paired with gravel boards can be a practical compromise. If you want something more robust with less maintenance down the line, closeboard panels are usually worth the extra spend. Looking at your fence panels, fence posts and gravel boards together will help you get the best balance between cost and longevity.

It is usually better practice to lift a few slabs and dig proper post holes in the soil, then relay the patio around the new fence posts. This lets you get decent depth (typically 600–750 mm), wrap the base of concrete fence posts or wooden fence posts in concrete, and form a small fall at the top of the concrete so water runs away from the timber. It also makes future replacements easier, because you can break out the old footing without having to cut through slabs again. While the slabs are up, check for drainage runs, electric cables or other services under the patio before you dig, and plan any gravel boards and levels so panels clear the paving rather than sitting in water. Coring through existing slabs and setting posts through the holes is possible, but it needs care and is best kept for situations where lifting slabs is very difficult. You need a hole big enough that concrete can properly surround the post below slab level, accept the risk of cracking the slab, and understand that any future post change means breaking that slab out. For lighter, lower screening you can sometimes use bolt down post shoes fixed to a good thick slab base, but for a standard full height garden fence, especially in a windy spot, posts dug into the ground with proper cement products will be the stronger and longer lasting option.

With 125 mm wide feather edge boards, a good rule of thumb is 3 boards per 1 ft of fence run. A 1.8 m bay is roughly 6 ft, so you need about 18 feather edge boards per bay. A 3 m bay is roughly 10 ft, so allow about 30 boards per bay. Always round up and add a couple of extra boards per run for cuts, damaged pieces and tighter spacing at the ends. That 3-per-foot rule is based on an overlap of around 25 mm on a 125 mm board, which leaves roughly 100 mm of each board showing. This gives a solid, weather-resistant closeboard finish without gaps opening up as the timber seasons. Fix the boards tight down to your gravel board, work from a string line, and keep the overlap consistent up each bay so the finished fence looks straight and sheds water properly.

You can build a horizontal slatted gate with timber battens, but treat it like a proper small door rather than just a panel of slats. Start with a solid, pressure treated timber frame, usually a rectangle with a diagonal brace running from the bottom latch side up to the top hinge side to resist sagging. Fix the frame to sturdy posts set in concrete, not to a weak or loose fence. Screw your battens onto the frame with consistent gaps, for example 10–15 mm, using stainless or exterior coated screws and pre-drilling near the ends to avoid splitting. Keep the slats slightly short of the ground and use a gravel board under the opening if needed so the timber stays clear of standing water. For gate furniture, use decent quality hinges, ideally hook and band or heavy tee hinges that are at least half the width of the gate, and fit three on taller or heavier gates. Fix hinges with proper coach screws or through-bolts into the frame, not just small woodscrews, and fit the latch where it lines through with your existing fence and is easy to reach from both sides. Check the gate swings freely without scraping, allow a couple of millimetres clearance all round, and consider adding an adjustable latch or rising gate hinges if the ground is uneven. Finally, seal or treat all cut ends and keep the gate as a separate structure, so it is not also trying to support things like pergolas, shade sails or heavy planters.

On a raised townhouse terrace, lighter screening that lets some light and air through usually works better than solid fencing. Slatted panels, woven screens or trellis fixed to properly anchored posts or metal uprights can give you a good sense of privacy while keeping views and daylight, and you can add climbers in planters at the base to soften things further. Keep overall heights within typical 2 metre garden limits and check any balcony or parapet rail is strong enough before fixing to it. Because raised terraces are more exposed, try to keep screens as wind friendly as possible and avoid turning the edge into a solid sail. Use bolt down post shoes fixed to the main structure, not just decking boards, and keep the screen line slightly set back from the edge so loads go into the frame rather than the outermost boards. Plan a mix of full height screening on the most overlooked sides and lower or more open sections elsewhere so the space feels private where you sit but not boxed in.

To mount fence panels on a low wall, first make sure the brickwork is sound and level, then fix concrete or timber posts using heavy duty bolt down post shoes or core drill and set posts into the wall on steel reinforcing bars with concrete, rather than simply screwing into the bricks. Space posts to suit your panel width, keep the total height within usual planning limits, use gravel boards where needed, and fix panels to the posts so the wall carries loads through the posts, not through rawlplugs in the masonry.

As a rough guide, 3x3 posts (around 75 x 75 mm) are usually only suitable for lower, lighter fencing in sheltered spots, for example 0.9–1.2 m high picket or waney lap, and even then they should be set at least 600 mm into concrete with a decent gravel board to keep timber out of the ground. For full height 1.8 m panels, especially closeboard or heavier decorative designs with trellis tops, 4x4 posts (around 100 x 100 mm) are the safer choice, particularly on long straight runs, corners and anywhere exposed to wind. The heavier and more solid the panel, the more important it is to go up a size on posts rather than trying to save a little on timber, so for a mixed garden many people use 4x4 posts on all main boundaries and keep 3x3 only for short internal dividers or low features. Whichever size you choose, good quality pressure treated posts, enough concrete around them, and the use of gravel boards will make more difference to lifespan than the section alone, so if your old posts failed at ground level it is sensible to upgrade both the post size and the footing while you have the fence out.

Decorative fence panels focus on appearance with features like slats, curves or lattice, often using lighter sections that are ideal for front gardens, screens and sheltered spots where style matters more than strength. Heavy duty panels use thicker framing, boards and fixings, designed for exposed boundaries, taller runs and areas that take more wind and wear, so they are the better choice for main garden perimeters.

It is sometimes possible to hang a metal or composite gate on existing timber posts, but only if the posts are genuinely solid and the new gate is not a big jump in weight. Check each post carefully at and just below ground level with a screwdriver, any softness, cracking or movement when you push it means it should be replaced. Look at the post size too, skinny old 75 x 75 mm posts are usually not suitable for a heavy gate, you want something more substantial set properly in concrete. If the posts also carry fence panels, be cautious, they are already working hard in the wind and a heavier gate will add more strain on the hinge side in particular. If you are moving to a much heavier metal or composite gate, it is usually better value to change at least the hinge post, and often both posts, so they are sized and installed for the new weight. You can replace them with new, larger section timber set deeper in concrete, or consider steel or concrete posts that match the style of the new gate. Use decent hinges and fix them with coach screws or through-bolts, not just small screws into tired timber, and keep the gate as its own structure rather than trying to hang it off a shared fence post that is already leaning. If there is any doubt, replacing the posts at the same time as the gate is usually cheaper and easier than trying to solve movement and sagging later.

If your concrete posts and gravel boards are sound, the simplest way to soften them is with finish rather than replacement. Exterior masonry paint or specialist concrete stain in a soft brown or grey will take well to clean, dust free concrete and helps posts blend with timber panels, and you can usually run the same colour onto gravel boards so the whole run ties together. Always prime or key the surface as the paint manufacturer suggests, avoid very dark shades in hot spots to limit thermal movement, and allow the concrete to dry fully after bad weather before painting. If you prefer a fully timber look, you can clad the visible faces of posts with treated timber “U” cladding or slim battens that screw to the panels or to each other rather than drilling deeply into the post, keeping fixings clear of the main structural steel. Gravel boards can be faced with treated boards fixed on small stand off battens so water can drain behind. Whichever option you choose, keep cladding off the ground, leave small gaps for airflow and make sure you can still access post tops and fixings for any future repairs.

For most domestic driveways a clear gate opening of around 3.0 metres works well, as it comfortably takes typical cars and small vans and gives you a bit of margin for mirrors and turning. On very tight, straight drives you can get away with about 2.4 to 2.7 metres, but if you have walls, pillars or a sharp turn off the road it is worth keeping closer to 3.0 metres so vehicles are not clipping posts or having to swing in uncomfortably.

To stop soil and stones washing under a fence you want a solid barrier at the base, usually in the form of properly installed gravel boards that are set to the correct depth along the run; on flat ground the gravel board can often be only an inch or two below the lowest finished level, but where the garden is higher than your neighbour’s or the ground slopes, the gravel board should be set down to the lowest ground level on that bay so it genuinely retains the material on the higher side rather than leaving gaps, and on steeper runs it is often better to step the fence and boards rather than try to follow the slope. Concrete gravel boards give the best long term strength where there is a level change, although heavy duty timber boards can also work if they are pressure treated and kept off the soil where possible, and you can back them with compacted soil or gravel and a strip of weed membrane on the higher side so water can drain while the board holds the bank in place and stops material migrating through to your neighbour’s garden.

Fence panels should not sit directly on the ground. Always keep the timber clear of soil and lawn by using gravel boards or leaving a small gap. As a guide, use concrete or timber gravel boards 150 to 300 mm high so the panel sits fully off the ground, or if you are not using boards, maintain a gap of at least 50 mm. This helps drainage, reduces the risk of rot at the base and keeps the fence looking smart for longer.

Hi Terry, for our Brown Bolt Down Post Support (100 x 100 mm) we normally recommend 5.0 or 5.5 mm exterior wood screws at around 40–50 mm length to secure the timber post inside the shoe. These give good bite through the pre-drilled holes without risking splitting the post. For fixing the metal base to concrete, the usual choice is M8 concrete anchors (either through-bolts or shield anchors) at 60–80 mm embedment depending on your slab thickness. M10 can also be used if you prefer heavier fixings, but M8 is generally more than adequate for fence posts on firm concrete. Just make sure you drill clean, accurate holes using the anchor manufacturer’s recommended bit size.

A neat way to keep weeds down is to create a deliberate strip along the fence rather than fighting the grass right up against the timber. Scrape back soil and turf 150–300 mm out from the fence, lay a good quality weed membrane, then cover with gravel, bark or a narrow run of slabs. Keep the top of the membrane just below the bottom of the gravel board so water can drain away and the timber is not buried. If you like a lawn edge, finish with a small mowing strip or brick edging so you can run the mower right up to it and avoid strimming against posts and boards. Some people also screw a narrow sacrificial board or metal strimmer guard along the bottom so the tool never hits the main fence. Weed killer is best kept as a last resort along a fence line. Occasional spot treatment with a systemic weed killer is usually fine, but do not soak the base of timber posts or gravel boards and always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Avoid using anything that claims to sterilise the ground for months, that can wash into post holes and drainage. For persistent growth right at the posts, a sharp hoe or hand weeding is safer in the long run. Whatever method you choose, keep soil and mulch below the top of the gravel board so the fence can dry out properly, and if the bottom of the panels is already sitting in damp soil it is worth lifting them onto gravel boards or concrete supports before you worry about weed control.

Around vegetable gardens and allotments, light but secure fencing works best, so you protect crops without casting heavy shade. A 1.2 to 1.5 metre post and wire or post and weld mesh fence is usually ideal, with treated timber posts set in concrete and smaller mesh at the bottom to keep pets and rabbits out. You can add a low gravel board to stop soil spilling, fit a simple gate for barrow access and keep any solid closeboard sections to a minimum so beds still get plenty of light and airflow.

For an extra wide garden gate start with very strong gate posts, typically at least 150 x 150 mm timber set deep in concrete. Use full length hook and band or adjustable field gate hinges fixed with coach screws or bolts, ideally three on tall gates, and make sure the gate itself has a proper frame with a diagonal brace running from the bottom hinge side to the top latch side, plus a good drop bolt or gate wheel to support the closing edge.

Concrete posts give the longest life and need very little maintenance, they will not rot and pair perfectly with concrete gravel boards, although they are heavier to handle and look more utilitarian. Timber posts are lighter, easier to cut on site and can look softer in a traditional garden, but even when pressure treated they will not last as long as concrete and benefit from gravel boards and careful installation to keep the base dry.

For stopping timber posts rotting at the base, focus on using good quality pressure treated posts, setting them in proper post mix with the concrete finished just above ground level and sloped away from the timber so water cannot sit around the post, adding gravel boards so panels are kept off the ground, dropping a little drainage gravel in the bottom of each hole, and always retreating any cut ends with a good end grain preservative before installation.

Solar lights work well on fences and decking if you keep things simple and think first about where the panels will actually get sun. On fences, small post cap lights or slim wall lights mounted on the “sunny” side of the posts usually work better than big lanterns. Try to keep the solar panel facing roughly south or west and above the height of heavy planting so it is not shaded by shrubs or trellis. Along panels, use low profile strip or string lights fixed to your own screws or clips rather than stapling through cables, and avoid loading old or wobbly panels with lots of fittings. On side paths, a light at the top of every second or third post is usually enough to mark the route without turning the fence into a runway. On decking, recessed “dot” lights or small surface mounted step lights are ideal for marking edges and risers without shining straight into people’s eyes. Keep solar modules on the open edge of the deck or on a nearby rail where they can charge, then run the low voltage leads neatly underneath. Aim the light across the surface rather than outwards, so it washes the deck and steps instead of glaring at you or your neighbours. Wherever you install them, use stainless or exterior screws, pre drill into timber near edges, and keep fixings out of concrete posts unless you have the right masonry plugs. Once they are in, check after dark for any harsh glare and adjust angles or heights before you add more.

Concrete gravel boards give the longest life and the best protection where ground levels vary or you are retaining soil, as they will not rot, resist strimmer damage and add weight and stability to the fence, which is why we fit them on most new installations. Timber gravel boards are lighter to handle, easier to cut on site and can look a little softer in more traditional gardens, but they will need more maintenance over time and should always be properly pressure treated and kept off heavy, wet soil where possible.

Horizontal slat fencing is ideal for a contemporary garden, especially if you pair Single Slatted Fence Panels or Double Slatted Fence Panels with matching Garden Gates and neat Garden Gate Furniture. Use good quality pressure treated Fence Posts, ideally Concrete Fence Posts with Concrete Gravel Boards, so the Timber Battens stay clear of the ground and water. For a sleek look, keep your post spacing consistent, line and level everything carefully, and think about how the fence and gates frame views from the house and patio. Smaller, even gaps (for example 10–20 mm) give a modern, “screen” effect. Single slatted options feel lighter and show more of the garden beyond, while Double Slatted Fence Panels stagger the boards on each side of the rails, which gives much better privacy while still allowing airflow and reducing wind load. If you are going over 2 m on a boundary, or near a highway, check height limits with your local planning authority before you start. For maintenance, choose good quality pressure treated Timber and avoid fixing slatted screens to weak or shared structures. Fix into your own Fence Posts, dig them at least 600–750 mm deep with Cement Products, and use Screws, Fixings & Fasteners that are appropriate for treated Timber. Slatted designs shed wind and water well, but they do show dirt and algae sooner than solid Closeboard Fence Panels, so plan for a gentle washdown and re-coat with a suitable fence treatment every few years if you want to keep the colour uniform. Keep plants off the boards, maintain clear gaps above the Concrete Gravel Boards for airflow, and avoid using the fence to support heavy items like pergolas or Railway Sleepers, which should always be built on their own independent structure.

We recommend cleaning green algae off fence panels with a soft brush, garden sprayer and a suitable fence cleaner rather than strong pressure washing, which can damage the timber and strip treatments; work from the bottom up with a diluted algae or patio cleaner, allow it to dwell as per the product instructions, then gently scrub and rinse, and once the panels are fully dry you can apply a fresh fence treatment or stain, with fuller step by step guidance available in our dedicated algae removal article on our website.

For a neat, traditional picket fence that still feels secure, aim for gaps similar to our ready made picket panels, which use roughly 75 mm clear between each pale. This spacing keeps the fence looking light and open while still giving a clear boundary and helping to discourage dogs or children from pushing through, and the key is to keep the gaps consistent along the whole run so the fence looks straight and well set out.

For coastal or seaside gardens exposed to salt-laden winds, we generally recommend a heavy duty closeboard panel with concrete posts and concrete gravel boards, as this combination gives you a strong, semi solid barrier with minimal ground contact for the timber and excellent long term durability. A properly pressure treated closeboard panel with UC4 posts (where timber posts are used within the panel construction), fully galvanised or stainless steel fixings, and concrete gravel boards lifting the timber clear of the soil will cope far better with wet, salty conditions than lightweight lap panels or timber ground rails, and pairing this with good quality post concrete, sensible fence heights and regular checks on fixings will help the fence stand up to coastal winds and reduce ongoing maintenance.

You can use a pressure washer on fences, but it is easy to do more harm than good if you are too close or use a narrow, high-pressure jet. Waney lap fence panels are the most vulnerable because the thin horizontal slats can lift or blow out if you hit them head on. Closeboard fence panels and timber gravel boards are stronger, but you should still work on a low setting, use a wide fan pattern, and keep the lance at least 300–450 mm from the surface. Always test a small, hidden area first, work with the grain rather than across it, and avoid concentrating on the overlaps or edges where water can get in and lift the boards. In many cases, a stiff brush and a proper fence cleaner or algae remover, followed by a rinse on a gentle setting, is safer than relying on pressure alone. Concrete gravel boards will tolerate more pressure, but you can still chip the surface if you use a very tight jet too close, so keep the nozzle moving and do not dwell on one spot. Whatever you are cleaning, avoid aiming water up under the bottom of the panels or into the joints, and do not blast directly at nails, fixings or the bottom of posts where you can erode the timber. Let everything dry thoroughly, then refresh with a suitable fence treatment so the timber is protected again after cleaning. Take normal safety precautions, keep clear of electrical equipment, and if the panels are already soft, rotten or loose in the posts, it is usually better to replace them than to risk stripping them with a jet washer.

When composite decking meets a timber fence, the key is keeping the junction clean and allowing airflow so moisture can’t linger. Give the decking a light wash a few times a year with warm soapy water and a soft brush to remove pollen, algae and debris that tends to collect along the fence line. Avoid harsh cleaners because composite doesn’t need them and they can leave residues. At the same time, brush out any buildup where the boards meet the gravel board so water can run off freely rather than sitting in the corner. For the fence itself, check once or twice a year that the gravel boards and lower rails are clear of trapped debris from the deck, as this is what causes timber to stay damp. If the fence is pressure treated it won’t need much more than an occasional clean, but re-coating exposed faces every couple of years helps keep moisture out, especially where air movement is reduced by the deck. As long as you keep the joint area clean and let both materials breathe, composite decking and a timber fence sit happily together without long-term issues.

Trellis panels are ideal for creating gentle dividers that keep the garden feeling open, so fix them to properly concreted posts with gravel boards where needed, and use partial runs or staggered sections rather than solid walls so you can still see through. Heights of around 1.5 to 1.8 metres work well for screening seating and play areas, and if you add climbers or slim planters at the base you can soften views between zones without boxing the space in.

On a shared drive it helps to agree the layout with your neighbour before you order anything. Start by looking at how cars and bins actually move now, then mark out with string or canes where a low dividing fence or simple run of posts would sit without pinching the drive. Often the fairest line is straight down the centre or following what is shown on the title plan, but it is usually best to keep any solid fencing set back from the pavement so both houses still have a clear, open entrance. Use gravel boards or a small gap at the bottom so timber is not sitting in standing water, and keep posts just inside your side of the agreed line so you do not have to move them later if there is any dispute. For gates, think about how they open and where people need to walk. Narrow side gates to gardens usually work best opening into the property, not across shared space, and taller gates are often better set a little further back where the drive splits so you are not creating a tunnel between solid fences. At the front, short sections of lower, lighter panels or picket style gates feel more welcoming than a tall solid screen right on the shared area. Make sure there is enough room to swing car doors, move bins and step aside safely when both households are using the drive. If anything about ownership, sightlines or visibility for cars is unclear, speak to your neighbour, check your deeds and, if needed, take advice before you dig for new posts.

You can make the top of the fence less inviting without using ugly spikes by changing the profile and adding light features. A simple trick is to fit a smooth, slightly sloping capping rail so there is no flat, comfy perch directly above the patio, or to run a narrow, rounded capping that is just awkward enough for birds to grip. In key spots behind the seating area you can add a short section of trellis set a little higher and further back from the patio, so the preferred perch moves away from the slabs. Some people also run a fine, tensioned line or two a few centimetres above the fence in that section, which gently discourages birds from landing exactly on the top without harming them. It also helps to give them somewhere “better” to sit that is not directly over the patio. A small tree, tall shrub or freestanding perch at the back of a bed will often become the new favourite spot once it is higher and feels safer than the fence. Avoid hanging feeders right above the seating area, keep those further down the garden so birds are drawn away, and accept that you may still need the occasional hose down where they insist on perching. Whatever you add, fix into solid posts, keep timber capped and off the ground, and do not overload the fence with heavy structures or accessories in one place.

For a child friendly garden boundary you’re usually looking for a fence that’s secure, smooth and not too intimidating, so a standard 1.5–1.8 m closeboard or panel fence with a level top and no sharp finials, or a lower solid fence with a trellis top for extra height and light, both work well; avoid big horizontal rails or wide gaps that act as climbing ladders, choose planed or well finished timber, and keep nails, fixings and gravel boards flush so there are no snag points for small hands. Pair the fence with a matching gate that has a good quality latch (set high on the inside so children can’t easily open it), consider adding a soft planting strip inside the boundary to cushion trips, and keep surfaces clear of loose objects or furniture that could be used for climbing so you get a secure perimeter that still feels open and pleasant to be in.

Capping rails and post caps help protect the cut tops of boards and posts from weather, which can slow water ingress and reduce splitting, and they also give a fence a much more finished, premium look with a clean horizontal line. They are especially worth adding on closeboard or heavy duty panel runs, in very exposed gardens, on front boundaries and around seating areas where the fence is on show, and on taller posts where a cap also helps shed water and discourages birds perching.

If the posts and the rest of the fence are sound, the usual approach is simply to remove the damaged panel from between the posts and drop a new one in, taking care not to disturb the run; with slotted concrete posts, remove any post caps, then lift the old panel straight up and out (if it’s swollen or jammed you may need to cut it into sections), clear any debris from the post slots and gravel board, and slide the new, same-size panel down into place so it sits fully in both slots and on the gravel board, while with timber posts you’ll normally need to remove screws or nails from the old panel or rails, then fix the new panel using quality galvanised brackets or screws, checking that the posts are still plumb, the top line of the fence is level, and any fresh timber cuts are treated with an end-grain preservative before you refit caps and tidy up.

We do not recommend fixing a shade sail to standard garden fencing. Shade sails create a lot of uplift and sideways pull when the wind gets up, which can easily bend posts, rack panels out of square, or pull posts loose in the ground. Typical fence posts for a domestic garden are designed for wind through or against the fence, not for a large “kite” trying to lift or drag them, and it is even more risky if the fence is shared, older, or built in mixed materials, for example concrete posts with timber panels between. For a permanent or semi-permanent shade sail, you should install separate posts specifically for the sail, set deeper and usually with a larger section and concrete footing than standard fence posts. Keep fixings for the sail clear of any existing posts and panels, and do not use a fence to support pergolas, hot tubs, sleeper walls or similar loads either. If you want a very small, temporary sail, only use it in settled weather, fix it to solid points on the house or purpose-made posts, and take it down if wind is forecast. Where there is any doubt, speak to a qualified installer or structural professional, as a failed shade sail can cause damage and injury.

For width, measure the gap between the inside faces of the posts, not the old panel itself. If you have concrete posts with slots, measure from the inside of one slot to the inside of the other at both the top and bottom to check the gap is consistent, that measurement is the panel width you need to order. Standard panels are usually about 1.83 m wide, but always work to your actual post gaps rather than assuming, and if a bay is a bit tight or out of square it is often easier to trim or pack one replacement panel than to try to force it in. For height, measure just the panel, from the bottom of the timber panel to the top of the panel, do not include any gravel board or capping in that size. If you have a gravel board, measure its height separately so you know the total overall height of the fence once the new panel is in. When you are replacing like for like, check one good existing bay and copy those dimensions, and if you are upgrading from no gravel board to having one, remember to allow for that extra depth so the new panels do not end up taller than you expect.

Double fencing can work well for extra privacy if you treat the new run as a separate fence fully on your side of the boundary, with its own posts and gravel boards and a clear gap between the two lines so you can maintain both sides. A solid 1.8 metre closeboard fence inside an existing lighter fence will greatly cut sightlines and slightly soften noise, but it will not make the garden soundproof, and you still need to stay within normal height and planning limits.

For heavier decorative fence panels with trellis tops, it is usually best to stick to the manufacturer’s standard bay size, typically 1.8 m centres, and focus on using good quality posts and concrete footings. Go up a size on the posts for a long or exposed run, for example solid concrete fence posts or chunky timber posts set at least 600–750 mm deep in concrete, and use gravel boards so the panels are kept clear of the ground. The trellis top increases wind load because less air passes through than you might expect, so treat the run more like a solid screen than a light open fence, and check that the total height is within the usual planning limits, typically around 2 m for rear boundaries unless your local authority agrees otherwise. Adding extra intermediate posts is sensible on very long, straight runs, on exposed sites, or where panels sit above a change in level or retaining wall. You do not have to put a post between every panel, but shortening some bays to around 1.5 m, or introducing occasional “breaks” with a wider post or brick pier, will reduce flex and help everything stay straighter over time. Try to avoid cutting decorative panels down to odd widths unless you can re-frame the cut end properly, since that weakens the panel. Whatever layout you choose, keep the fence as a standalone structure, do not use the posts to support pergolas, shade sails or similar loads, and if the ground is poor or very windy it is worth asking a local installer for a quick look before you com

The key is to hide the unit visually while keeping air moving freely. Use slatted or trellis style panels on their own concreted posts, set a good gap away from the heat pump in line with the manufacturer’s clearance guidance, with the top left open and slats running horizontally or vertically so air can flow in and out. Avoid boxing the unit in with solid fencing, and never fix anything directly to the casing. Make at least one side removable or hinged so engineers can get full access for servicing and cleaning. A simple L shaped screen usually works well, set on gravel or slabs so vegetation does not grow into the unit, and you can soften the look with narrow planters or low shrubs in front of the panels so the whole area reads as a feature rather than a piece of plant equipment.

You can usually attach lights, light screens and decorations to a garden fence as long as you keep the weight sensible and fix them properly. Where possible, screw into posts or top rails rather than thin boards, using galvanised screws and quality clips instead of tiny nails. Use outdoor rated lights, avoid overloading any one panel, stay on your side of the boundary and do not drill into a neighbour’s fence without their agreement.

You can sometimes reuse old post holes, but only if the spacing, line and depth are correct and the existing concrete is sound, because dropping new posts straight into tired or undersized footings is one of the quickest ways to end up with a wobbly new fence. In many cases it is better either to break out the old concrete completely and start again, or to dig the new hole slightly offset from the original so you are working into undisturbed ground, aiming for a post depth of roughly a third of the post length (typically 600–750 mm in the ground for a 1.8 m fence) with a decent collar of concrete all around. Where the old bases are large and solid and you want to reuse them, you can sometimes drill or chip a new socket in the centre for a repair spur or new post, but always check alignment with a string line, make sure water can drain away from the base, and never compromise footings just to save a bit of digging, as the fence will only ever be as strong as the foundations you set it on.

In most cases it is better to match the fence to the posts you have, rather than trying to make short concrete posts behave like tall ones. You cannot safely “extend” a concrete post in any meaningful way, and stacking too many gravel boards or adding bolt-on extenders puts a lot of extra weight and wind load on a post that was never designed for it. As a rough guide, a standard 1.8 m privacy fence normally uses a 2.4 m concrete post, so if your posts are shorter than that you should think about dropping to a 1.5 m or 1.65 m panel with a single gravel board, rather than forcing a full 6 ft panel plus board into a lower post. Always keep enough post above the top of the panel to hold the section securely and enough post buried in concrete, typically 600 mm or so, to stop it levering out in the wind. A good compromise, if your posts are only a bit short, is to use one gravel board and a slightly shorter panel to reach an overall height close to what you want while keeping the load sensible. For example, a 5 ft style panel on top of a gravel board often feels very similar to a 6 ft solid run once it is in, especially if the garden falls away. If you find you would need more than one gravel board or some sort of add-on extender to hit your target height, it is usually time to start again with taller posts and do the job once. Whatever height you settle on, check typical rear garden limits with your local planning authority, and keep the new fence as a separate structure rather than asking the posts to also carry pergolas, shade sails or other loads.

When building decking around a mature tree, keep the structure completely independent of the trunk and main roots. Use small pads or adjustable pedestals rather than a continuous concrete slab, avoid digging big holes close to the trunk and never bolt into the tree. Leave a generous gap all around the bark, at least 50 to 100 mm, so air, water and movement are not restricted and the tree can grow without the deck pinching it. Finish the opening with a removable trim or infill boards that sit slightly back from the trunk so you can lift them as the tree thickens. Keep any nearby screens or fencing on their own posts and footings, not using the tree for support, and if the tree is protected or very large it is worth taking advice from an arborist before you start so the design works for both the deck and the tree long term.

You can add self closing and softer closing action to most timber garden gates by using adjustable spring hinges, a separate gate spring or a small hydraulic or gas gate closer sized to the weight of the gate. Choose hardware that is specifically rated for outdoor wooden gates, fix it into solid posts with good quality screws or bolts, and take time to adjust the tension so the gate closes fully without slamming; it is also worth checking the posts are firm, the hinges are not already twisted and the latch lines up cleanly before you fit any closer, otherwise the extra force can pull a weak post or loose fixings further out of line.

Timber decking is warmer and more natural looking, usually cheaper up front and easy to cut and repair, but it needs regular cleaning and re treatment to keep algae at bay and extend its life. Composite costs more initially and looks more uniform, but it is very low maintenance, does not need staining and generally lasts longer in wet or shaded spots, which often makes it the better long term choice for busy, low upkeep gardens.

You can fix a pergola to raised decking, but the posts should connect to the main deck frame and, ideally, their own concrete footings rather than just sitting on deck boards. Use proper post anchors or bolt down shoes fixed into joists or beams, not unsupported edges, and include diagonal bracing so the pergola cannot rack in the wind. Keep spans sensible, check the deck structure can take the extra load and height, and treat all cut timber before you assemble it.

Pergolas and arches should normally have their own posts in concrete rather than relying on existing fence posts, because most garden fencing is designed to carry panels and wind load only, not the extra weight and leverage of a roofed structure. You can use light fixings from the pergola back to the fence for stability, but keep the main supports independent and always stay on your side of the boundary.

As East Coast Fencing, we always remind customers that in most parts of England you generally don’t need planning permission for a front garden fence next to the pavement if it is no higher than 1 metre when adjacent to a highway (including pavements), or up to 2 metres high elsewhere, provided there are no previous planning conditions or restrictions on the property (for example, listed buildings or specific covenants) that say otherwise; anything above those limits, or any fence that might affect visibility on a corner or junction, could trigger the need for planning consent, so it is always sensible to check with your local planning authority or use the Planning Portal’s guidance before you commit to a design.

When a garden level drops, the neatest way to handle the change is to treat each height change as its own short fence bay so the fence steps cleanly rather than tapering. Start by setting each post perfectly plumb at the point where the ground level shifts, because that post becomes the transition point. Install the higher section first with its gravel board and panel set to the correct finished height, then move down to the lower section and drop the next post so the top of its gravel board sits tight to the lower ground level. This creates a clear horizontal reference for the lower panel. The panels then meet at the posts with a tidy step between them instead of a sloping top line or irregular bottom gaps. If the change is more than one panel height, create multiple smaller steps using additional posts so each step remains visually consistent. This approach keeps both the top of the fence and the run of gravel boards looking intentional and avoids triangular gaps under the panels.

To make a pond area safer, use a continuous low fence around the water with a child resistant gate as the only access. A 1.0 to 1.2 metre high picket, vertical bar or simple closeboard style with narrow gaps and no horizontal rails on the outside helps stop climbing while still looking attractive. Hang the gate so it is self closing with a high latch on the inside, keep furniture and rocks away from the fence line and make sure the path inside is flat and easy for adults to use.

For a small terrace on a slope, set the first sleeper course on compacted hardcore, level and square, then stack sleepers in a staggered brick pattern with long landscaping screws or coach screws pinning each layer to the one below. Fix vertical posts or rebar behind the wall at intervals for extra restraint, add drainage stone and membrane behind, and keep the retained height modest so the wall stays stable.

For stepped sleeper planters along a fence, start by setting a clear reference line with string and marking each step height so the tops of the sleepers flow in an even, deliberate pattern rather than random drops. Use 100 x 200 mm or similar sleepers on a compacted hardcore base, with vertical posts or timber stakes fixed behind the wall at the corners and step points, bolted through so the face cannot lean. Keep the sleepers a small gap off the fence, add drainage holes and a gravel backfill, and line the inside with membrane to protect the timber and help the planters stay neat and stable over time.

A living screen works best if you keep plants slightly away from the fence, give roots room and leave yourself a maintenance gap; as a guide, plant bamboos or hedging 450 to 600 mm in front of the fence on your side of the boundary, use root barrier or large planters for running bamboo, and support lighter climbers on trellis or wires fixed to posts rather than straight into panels. Choose evergreen species for year round cover, mulch and water well in the first couple of seasons, and keep growth trimmed just in front of the fence line so you can still inspect and maintain the fence behind.

The neatest solution is usually a narrow full-height gate rather than a flap cut into the middle of a panel. Create an opening between two solid posts, or add new posts set in concrete just wide enough for an engineer to step through comfortably, then build a small framed gate with top and bottom rails and a diagonal brace so it does not sag. Hang it on decent hinges fixed with proper screws or bolts into the frame, leave a small gap at the bottom so the timber does not sit in water, and line the cladding through so it blends into the rest of the fence when shut. Avoid hacking a hole out of a waney lap or tired panel without adding framing, it will weaken the fence and is more likely to twist or break. For security, fit a simple lockable latch or long-throw gate lock that you can share with your oil supplier or meter company, and mount it so it is easy to use from inside your garden but not obvious from the public side. Make sure the gate can open fully without fouling pipework, tanks or meter cabinets, and check where pipes, cables and bases run before you dig for new posts. If the oil tank is shared or in a tight space there may be fire clearances or access requirements, so it is worth checking your policy documents or speaking to your supplier before you build anything permanent across the front of it.

In a small front garden, it usually works best to keep the front boundary lower and lighter than the closeboard down the sides. A simple run of low picket fence panels between the existing posts, or new slimmer posts, gives you a clear edge without blocking views in and out. If you want a bit more detail, you can mix in one or two decorative fence panels or a short section of trellis over a solid base near the path or gate, so the entrance feels like a feature rather than a barrier. Aim for somewhere around 900–1,050 mm high at the front, check any local height limits next to the pavement, and keep the lines level so it all ties visually to the taller side fences behind. Trellis works well where you want screening that still lets light through. A low solid section with fence topper trellis above can echo the solid closeboard sides without making the front feel heavy. You can then add a matching garden gate and simple garden gate furniture to line everything through. Keep new posts properly set in concrete with a small gravel board or gap under the timber so it does not sit in water, and avoid fixing new front fencing into old side posts that are already carrying a lot of load. If you plan to grow climbers, choose lighter, open styles so plants and airflow are not fighting against a wall of timber in a tight space.

On a corner plot it usually works best to choose one clear “front door” approach and line the main gate and path up with that, keeping the route as straight and obvious as possible from the pavement to the house. Use lower, more open fencing or railings around the street facing corner so the garden feels welcoming and you keep good visibility at the junction, then let the boundary step up a little higher as it runs back along the side where you want more privacy. For day to day use and security, many customers add a full height side gate set slightly back from the pavement, tying into taller closeboard or panel fencing along the less public side boundary so bins and rear access are out of direct view. Leave enough width on paths for prams and bins, keep any solid screening clear of sightlines for drivers, and use planting inside the fence to soften the layout so you still have good beds and usable corners rather than everything being taken up by hard boundaries.

For under deck storage, keep the deck structure primary and treat storage as infill. Use proper joists and beams, then frame dedicated openings for lift up hatches in the decking or side access doors in the fascia so you are not cutting joists later. Keep the area ventilated with mesh vents, store logs and tools on simple raised bearers, use waterproof boxes for cushions and fit gravel or slabs under the deck so water drains and the space stays tidy and dry.

For most domestic gardens, the safest and most acceptable “security topping” is something that is hard to climb but not designed to injure, such as a solid 300 mm trellis section with thorny climbers, or angled panels on your own posts, keeping the overall fence height within local planning limits. Sharp spikes, barbed wire and rotating anti climb systems can create liability issues if they are low enough to be touched, so if you are considering anything more aggressive you should keep it well above normal reach, fit clear warning signs and check local guidance or speak to your insurer before you install it.

For raised beds and edging, set railway sleepers on compacted hardcore or firm ground, level and square, then fix them together with long landscaping screws or coach screws at the corners and along the length, staggering joints if you go more than one sleeper high. For taller beds, peg or bolt them back to vertical posts set in concrete. Line the inside with heavy duty membrane, add a little drainage stone at the base, and keep soil just below the top to help the timber last.

You can usually fence near trees, but you need to protect the roots and work a bit more carefully. Hand dig post holes so you can see what you are doing, and avoid cutting any major roots if at all possible, especially anything thicker than your wrist. If a big root is in the way, offset the post position slightly or shorten the bay and use an extra post rather than hacking the root out. Keep gravel boards and rails a little clear of the trunk, allow space for future growth, and if the tree is protected or very significant, take advice from your local authority or an arborist before you start.

If you want very low maintenance, the simplest long term option is usually concrete fence posts with concrete gravel boards and good quality pressure treated closeboard fence panels dropped between. The concrete takes the strain at ground level and does not rot, the gravel boards keep the timber clear of soil and strimmers, and the closeboard panels are robust enough that you are not constantly repairing slats. If you are starting from scratch, it is worth paying a bit more here rather than using light lap panels and timber posts that will need more attention and are more likely to fail at the base. On the timber itself, look for properly pressure treated panels and posts and avoid products that rely on a decorative surface coating to stay weatherproof. Many customers now treat fences once to get the colour they like, then leave them to weather and only recoat every few years when they are looking tired, rather than chasing a “just painted” look all the time. Keep soil and planting off the boards, use a gravel or slab strip at the base so the fence can dry out, and avoid fixing heavy structures or shade sails to the posts. That combination of concrete below, treated timber above and sensible detailing will give you a very low maintenance fence without constant painting.

Climbers are best planted a little away from the fence so they can grow without trapping moisture or forcing panels apart. As a guide, set plants 300 to 450 mm from the fence, fit trellis or wire supports fixed to your posts and rails, and train stems onto those rather than straight into the boards. Keep growth lightly trimmed so you retain airflow and can still inspect and maintain the fence.

Most gate rattle comes from movement at the latch or hinges, so start there. Check the hinges are tight and not worn, and adjust them so the gate sits square in the opening with an even gap. Fitting an adjustable gate latch or adding a simple drop bolt can pull the gate firmly into position and stop it knocking back and forth in the wind. Adding a rubber gate stop or a small timber stop fixed to the gate post makes a big difference, as it gives the gate something solid to rest against. If the gate is lightweight, upgrading the hinges or fitting a diagonal brace can also stiffen it up. A few well chosen pieces of ironmongery usually solve the problem without needing a new garden gate.

For a coordinated look, pick one main tone and repeat it on the fences, deck and key structures, then vary the depth rather than mixing lots of different colours. Greys and soft browns are easiest to live with, so for example use a mid grey on fences, a slightly deeper grey or natural oiled finish on decking, and keep planters, pergolas and gates in the same family so the planting provides most of the contrast.

For most garden fences, posts are set to suit standard 1.83 metre wide panels, so centres are usually just under 1.83 metres to keep panels a snug fit and reduce strain on fixings. Heavy duty closeboard and solid panels work best at these standard bay widths, while lighter picket or low decorative runs can sometimes stretch slightly further. Post and rail or stock fencing can go up to around 3 metres between posts, but shorter bays always give a stronger, longer lasting fence.

Fencing and planting can soften road noise, but they will reduce rather than completely remove it. A solid, gap free closeboard fence around 1.8 to 2.0 metres high, with gravel boards and posts set well, helps block line of sight and reflect some sound. You can improve this by planting a dense mixed hedge or evergreen shrubs inside the fence, and if space allows, using raised beds or a small soil bank so foliage forms a thick, layered screen.

In general, planning rules in England look at the height of the new fence and whether it fronts a highway or footpath. As a rough guide, if you replace a front hedge with a fence that is over about 1 metre high where it borders a pavement or road, you may need planning permission. If the front boundary is set well back from the pavement or the fence is below about 1 metre, it is less likely to be an issue, but you still need to be careful if visibility for drivers could be affected at a driveway or junction. Away from the highway, typical garden boundary limits are around 2 metres, but every property and council can treat things slightly differently, especially in conservation areas or where there are previous conditions on the house. The safest approach is to decide roughly what height and style of timber fence you would like, then check your council’s website or speak to the planning department before you remove the hedge. They can confirm any local restrictions, and you can then choose a fence height that gives you the privacy you want without causing problems later.

In very exposed or coastal gardens it pays to treat fencing and decking almost like a yacht: choose a good quality exterior woodstain or paint that is UV stable, flexible and suitable for high moisture, avoid cheap one coat sprays, and expect to recoat more often than in a sheltered plot. Keep timber clean by washing off salt and algae at least once a year, focus extra attention on cut ends, edges and handrails, and keep bases off the ground so finishes are not constantly sitting in standing water.

For most timber decking a gap of around 5 to 6 mm between boards works well, giving drainage and room for expansion without feeling open; if you are laying wet pressure treated boards they can go almost tight together, as they will shrink and open up as they dry. Composite and hardwood boards usually need more precise spacing, often 3 to 6 mm and a small gap at the board ends, so always follow the manufacturer’s fixing guide for clips and joint gaps.

For a timber shed you want a firm, level, free draining base that keeps the floor clear of wet ground. Concrete is the most solid option for larger or heavy use sheds, while well laid paving slabs on compacted hardcore work perfectly for most domestic gardens. Modern plastic shed base grids filled with gravel are also popular where you want less digging. Whichever you choose, get it level, square and slightly above surrounding ground so water runs away.

Single slatted fence panels have one layer of slats fixed to rails. You will usually get a smart, modern look but there will be sight lines through the gaps, especially if you view the fence on an angle or if a light is behind it at night. They let more wind through too, which can be a good thing if your garden is exposed because it reduces sail effect and strain on fence posts. The trade off is privacy. From one side the fixings and rails can be more visible, so the “good” face is normally clearer on the side you choose to present. Double slatted panels use two layers of slats, typically offset so the gaps are covered. That gives far better privacy and a more solid screen while still letting some air pass through, so you get a nicer balance than a fully solid panel. They also tend to look more similar from both sides because the slats overlap and hide more of the rails, which helps if the fence is seen from both gardens. The downside is they catch more wind than single slatted panels and they weigh more, so you want sturdy fence posts, good ironmongery and a proper concrete footing. If you are deciding between the two, think about what matters most on your boundary: privacy first, go double slatted; windy spot or you want a lighter look, single slatted often makes sense.

For both 1.5 m and 1.8 m high feather edge fencing, plan on three rails per bay. Two rails is really only for low runs around 1.2 m and under; above that, three rails stop the boards cupping and keep the fence rigid, especially in wind and over time. A simple layout that works well is: bottom rail roughly 200–250 mm above the top of the gravel board / ground, top rail about 100–150 mm down from the final top of the boards, then put the middle rail roughly halfway between the two (adjust slightly so your nail lines look neat). That gives each board three fixing points and keeps the boards supported across their full height. Square rails and cant rails are spaced the same; the difference is shape, not position. With cant rails, fit them so the sloping face sheds water away from the boards, and keep the “high” edge tight under the feather edge for maximum support. Whatever you choose, use at least 38–47 mm thick rails, fix them securely to the posts first, then hang your feather edge with two nails per rail per board.

For most small gaps it is still worth setting posts in concrete rather than relying on spikes. Two or three full height posts with panels can see just as much wind as a long run, and any movement will show at the house corner or gate. Dig proper holes, typically 600 mm deep, and use post mix or concrete so the posts are solid and you can line the panels through with the existing boundary. Keep timber posts clear of ground with a gravel board if you can, and avoid fastening posts directly to the house unless you really have to, so you are not drilling through the damp course or brickwork unnecessarily. Bolt down shoes and metal spikes are really only the best choice when the conditions suit them. Bolt down shoes can work well if you already have a good, thick concrete slab that you cannot dig through, for example a side path, and you can fix well back from the edge with proper masonry anchors. Metal spikes are more of a light duty option for low fencing in soft ground, they are not ideal for a 1.8 m boundary between buildings, as any rocking will quickly open gaps. For a standard side return or infill between house and fence, two or three posts properly set in concrete will be stronger and far less trouble over time.

Yes, you should leave a small gap between the edge of the decking and the fence. As a guide, allow around 10–20 mm between the outer boards and the fence or gravel board so water can drain, air can move and the timber is not constantly hard up against the boundary. Do not fix the deck frame into the fence posts, keep the deck as its own structure on proper joists and supports, and keep the finished deck height below the bottom of the fence panels or gravel boards so you are not burying any timber. That gap also gives you space to clean, treat and inspect the fence and the edge of the decking in future. Make sure the deck has a slight fall away from the house and does not create a “gutter” against the fence where water and debris will sit. If the boards have already been laid tight to the fence, it is worth cutting them back slightly with a saw and treating the cut edges, rather than leaving everything tight and trapping moisture on both sides.

The safest approach is to treat the sleeper step as its own little structure, not something tied into the fence. Work out the finished step height you want, then dig a shallow trench for the sleepers a short distance away from the fence, usually leaving a 25–50 mm gap between the back of the sleeper and the post concrete or gravel board. Keep your excavation no deeper than you need for a compacted sub-base (for example 50–75 mm of compacted Type 1 or gravel) so you are not cutting into the concrete around the posts. Lay the sleepers on this level, well-compacted base, check they fall slightly away from the fence for drainage, then fix the sleepers to each other with landscaping screws or plate connectors so they act as one solid unit. If you need two sleeper courses to make the height, screw or coach-screw the layers together and use a couple of short rebar pins or treated pegs driven down in front or behind, away from the fence line, to stop any creep. Backfill and compact soil or gravel gently up to the sleepers, but avoid piling soil against the fence or burying the bottom of any gravel boards. Leave that small gap between sleeper and fence so water and debris do not sit trapped, and resist the temptation to drill into posts or concrete for a fixing. If you find very shallow or crumbling post footings while you are digging, stop and either move the step slightly further into the garden or look at rebuilding that section of fence first so you are not relying on a weak foundation right on the edge of the patio.

A solid fence or screen can help take the edge off the hum, but only if you keep clear of the unit and build it as a separate structure. Aim to break the line of sight between the heat pump and the spots where you sit, rather than boxing the unit in. A short run of closeboard fence panels or hit and miss fence panels, set on their own posts with a gravel board and at least a metre clear of the unit in every direction, will deflect and muffle some noise, especially once you add planting in front on your side. Keep the top of the screen above the height of the fan so it actually blocks sound, and angle or “dog leg” it slightly if you can so noise is not just reflected straight back toward the house. You must not restrict airflow or access to the heat pump, that can shorten its life and may breach the neighbour’s warranty or installation guidelines, so it is important to leave the clearances recommended by the manufacturer and installer. Treat the fence or trellis as your own independent structure, set posts properly in concrete and avoid fixing anything to the unit or its base. Soft planting in front of the screen will do as much for comfort as the fence itself, since rustling leaves and birdsong help mask low background hum. Before you start, have a friendly word with your neighbour and, if possible, ask their installer or a heating engineer to confirm what distances and heights are sensible around that particular model.

Keep any fire pit or chiminea on a non combustible base such as slabs or gravel and give it generous clearance from fences and decking, ideally at least a couple of metres or whatever the manufacturer specifies. Where space is tight, fit a non combustible heat shield on the fence, avoid overhanging branches, never pull the burner under a pergola and keep a bucket of water or extinguisher handy when it is in use.

In a rented garden it is usually best to use freestanding or lightly fixed solutions so you are not altering the main boundary. Tall planters with trellis, freestanding slatted screens in metal or concrete bases, and pergola style frames with climbers all add privacy inside your side of the fence. You can also tie on bamboo or reed screening to existing posts or panels using cable ties, provided you do not damage or screw into a neighbour’s fence and you have your landlord’s permission.

In windy gardens the priority is a strong, well supported fence rather than a very lightweight decorative one, so we usually recommend heavy duty closeboard panels with concrete posts and concrete gravel boards, set at sensible centres and in good deep concrete footings. Keeping the height to 1.8 metres or less, stepping the run on slopes, and considering more open styles such as hit and miss or slatted panels in very exposed spots will all help reduce wind pressure and strain on the posts.

Start by running a tight string line along the boundary and measuring the total length in metres, then divide by the width of your chosen panels (usually 1.83 m) to see how many full bays you can fit and what, if any, cut panel you will need. Remember every bay needs a post, so you will normally have one more post than panels, and if you are using gravel boards allow one per bay, plus an extra post and board wherever you plan a corner, change of direction or gate.

You can fix fence posts to the top of a concrete retaining wall with bolt down post shoes, but only if the wall is solid, in good condition and thick enough. As a rough guide you want a properly reinforced wall, not thin coping or hollow blocks, and enough width that you can keep the fixing holes well back from the edge. Aim to have your expanding or resin anchors at least 75–100 mm in from the front and back edges of the wall so you do not blow chunks off the concrete when you tighten them. For most 1.5–1.8 m fences it is better to use heavy duty shoes with four fixings and proper M10 or M12 anchors, rather than light duty brackets. Space posts sensibly, avoid very large solid panels on a narrow wall, and consider using slatted panels or trellis to reduce wind load. If the wall is quite narrow or you are unsure about its strength, a safer alternative is to fix posts to the face of the wall on the garden side with long brackets or to set taller posts just behind the wall in proper concrete footings and then run your fence from those instead. Because there is a drop on the far side, also think about safety and any local rules about minimum guard height. The combined height of wall and fence may need to act more like a balustrade, so it must be rigid and well fixed. Where in doubt about the wall thickness or reinforcement, it is worth getting a builder or structural person to check before you drill a whole line of bolt holes along the top.

Outdoor mirrors can work well on a small garden fence as long as you keep them light, safe and secure. Choose mirrors designed for outdoor use, ideally acrylic or safety glass, and avoid anything too heavy for a standard fence panel. Fix them to the strongest points, for example directly to posts or a solid wall, rather than the middle of a flexible panel. Use suitable screws, fixings & fasteners, and check what is behind the fence before drilling so you do not damage buried services or neighbour’s property. Position mirrors where they bounce light from the sky or a bright part of the garden, not where they reflect directly into your or your neighbour’s windows. Think about safety and maintenance as you plan the layout. Avoid placing mirrors where they can dazzle drivers or create strong reflected sun on dry planting, furniture or soft furnishings. In very small spaces, it is usually better to use a few smaller mirrors rather than one huge sheet so the fence can still move a little in the wind without stressing the fixings. Check for sharp edges, fix them firmly at a sensible height so children cannot pull them off, and keep them clear of overgrown plants so you can inspect the fixings once or twice a year. If your fence is old, shared or already leaning, it is better to repair or replace it first or use separate posts or a wall instead of loading the fence further.

The simplest option is to cut the decking back by a board or two and form a narrow raised bed or sleeper planter that runs along the fence, leaving a small gravel strip between soil and fence so the timber is not constantly in contact with damp earth. Line the planter with membrane, punch drainage holes near the base and fill with decent topsoil, then plant climbers and small shrubs so roots have depth without sitting against posts and gravel boards. If you already have joists right against the fence, trim the deck back to the next joist, add a picture frame border so the edge looks finished, then build the planter just in front of the new edge. Keep the top of soil slightly below decking level, make sure any overflows drain away from the fence, and use trellis or wires on the fence for the climbers to grow up so you get a green backdrop without creating rot or drainage problems at the boundary.

Each year give your fence a quick health check: walk the line after winter, looking for loose posts, split boards and any fixings that have worked loose, and tighten or replace as needed. Keep soil, leaves and plants off the base, clear out any debris sitting on gravel boards and trim back climbers so air can move freely. Every few years, in dry weather, wash off algae and apply a good quality fence treatment to keep the timber water resistant and looking fresh.

Slippery decking is usually caused by a build up of algae and dirt, so the first step is a regular clean in autumn and winter using a stiff brush and suitable deck cleaner rather than an aggressive pressure wash that can damage the boards. Once clean and dry, you can apply an anti slip decking stain or oil, or retrofit non slip strips or mesh treads on the main walkways for extra grip. In very icy spells, use a light layer of grit or non corrosive de-icer and brush it off once the weather improves so the surface stays safe and the timber can dry.

For a new boundary fence it is safest to keep the structure fully on your side of the line, including posts and gravel boards, usually set a few centimetres inside any known markers so you are not accidentally building on your neighbour’s land. Check your deeds or Land Registry plan, look for existing features such as old fences or walls, and speak to neighbours before you start so everyone is clear where the line is and who will own and maintain the new fence.

You can sometimes straighten a slightly leaning concrete fence post, but it depends on why it has moved. If the post is sound and the lean is caused by loose or washed out ground rather than a failed footing, it is possible to dig out around the base, pull the post back plumb and re concrete it properly. You need enough room to work, and the old concrete usually has to come out so the new cement can bond and form a solid footing. Simply packing fresh cement around the top rarely works, as the movement is usually lower down and the post will lean again. If the post has rotated because the concrete footing has broken up or the ground is soft and waterlogged, straightening can be a short term fix at best. Repair spurs can help where timber posts have failed, but they are not normally suitable for concrete posts. In many cases, full replacement gives the most reliable result, especially if the fence panels are heavy or the run is exposed to wind. If you do decide to reset or replace it, using the right cement products and making the footing wider and deeper than before will help stop the same problem coming back.

Timber post caps should be fixed with a small bead of exterior-grade wood adhesive underneath plus one discreet stainless screw down through the centre into the top of the post. The glue stops lift in the wind and the screw prevents the cap twisting or walking loose. If the post tops are slightly uneven, plane or sand them flat first because caps won’t sit securely on a high spot. Swapping to plastic or metal caps is an option if you prefer a maintenance-free finish, but the fixing method is similar and a properly fitted timber cap is normally reliable.

You can fix a retractable washing line to a fence post as long as the post is solid, well concreted in and not shared with a neighbour without their agreement; choose a substantial post (concrete or at least 100 x 100 mm timber), make sure it is fully plumb and does not move when you pull on it, then fix the line unit or hook into the post itself using good quality screws or bolts rather than into a thin panel, and if the post already has a slight wobble, fit a repair spur or extra bracing first so the tension of the line does not pull it out of line over time.

Gabion baskets can work very well alongside fencing as long as they are treated as their own structure, not as supports for the posts. Set the baskets on firm, level ground or a compacted sub base, leave a small gap to the fence so they are not pushing on posts, and fill with clean stone so water drains freely. Keep heights sensible in domestic gardens and be mindful of the extra weight if you are close to retaining walls, patios or boundaries.

For raised decking with both steps and a ramp, keep the main deck level and build a straight, even flight of steps with consistent rises around 150 to 180 mm and comfortable treads around 250 to 300 mm, paired with a ramp on one side at a gentle gradient, ideally around 1 in 12 or shallower, with a firm non slip surface. Fit sturdy handrails and balustrades on any exposed edges and alongside the ramp, keep spindle gaps child safe, add a small landing where the ramp meets the deck and consider low level lighting so the route is easy and safe to use in all conditions.

You should never permanently block or build directly over a manhole, and you must keep safe, clear access for your water company or drainage contractor. Fencing is fine nearby, but do not put posts or walls on top of the cover or inspection chamber. Decking can usually run over a manhole if you design a removable hatch or trap door section that lifts out to expose the cover, ideally using a recessed or “infill” cover so the deck surface stays neat. Make sure the manhole remains at or just below finished level, the access panel is large and strong enough to walk on, and everyone knows where it is, so future maintenance does not mean ripping the whole fence or deck apart.

A simple way to get that allotment feel is to set out a grid of raised beds using sleepers, with paths wide enough for a barrow between them. Keep the beds fairly narrow, around 1.2 m, so you can reach the middle from each side, and sit them on a level, well drained base rather than straight on soft, boggy ground. Screw or bolt the sleepers together at the corners, stagger joints, and use short timber pegs or rebar pins on the outside if the beds are more than two sleepers high. Fill with decent topsoil and compost, and line the outside edges with a shallow gravel strip so the sleepers are not sitting in standing water all winter. Around the veg area, use low picket fence panels with a small gate so dogs are kept out but you can still see across the garden. Set posts properly in concrete, keep the timber just clear of the soil, and run a simple gravel board or small gap at the bottom so the pickets are not in contact with wet ground all the time. A narrow garden gate with basic garden gate furniture is enough, just make sure it opens into the veg area and clears any paths or beds. To tie everything in, pick a fence and sleeper colour that works with your main boundaries, repeat a couple of materials or colours from the rest of the garden, and keep the layout square to an existing patio or path so the “mini allotment” feels intentional rather than dropped in.

After a storm, start by looking at the line of the fence from a distance to spot any leaning posts, gaps that have opened up, or panels that have lifted. Up close, check each post at ground level where it meets the soil or concrete, this is where rot and movement usually show first. If a post moves when you push it, the concrete footing has cracked, or the timber is soft at the base, that section is structurally weak and is usually a replacement job rather than a simple repair. Do the same with gates, look for dropped latches, hinges pulling out, or posts that are twisting under the weight. Concrete gravel boards and concrete fence posts can hairline crack in high winds, so check for visible fractures or spalling and any signs they are starting to lean or pull away from the ground. Fence panels and closeboard sections can often be repaired if the posts and gravel boards are sound. Replace snapped rails, loose capping or a few broken boards, and re-fix panels properly into their posts with decent screws or panel clips if they have lifted. If a panel is bowed, rotten, or has lost a lot of its fixings, it is usually more cost effective and safer to replace the whole panel rather than patch it. Anything that is visibly unstable, close to a public path, or carrying extra loads like a pergola, shade sail or heavy climbers should be treated as a priority, and if you are unsure whether a leaning run can be saved, it is worth getting a local contractor to assess it before the next spell of bad weather.

You can make a fence much more wildlife friendly with a few small details that will not affect security. Add a couple of hedgehog gaps at the base of panels, roughly 13 x 13 cm and only on safe garden to garden boundaries, not onto the road. Fix bird boxes and bee hotels high on posts or sturdy panels, away from gates and regular traffic, and plant wildlife friendly climbers or a narrow hedge on your side of the fence so you add food and shelter without creating weak points.

For most dogs a solid 1.5 to 1.8 metre fence with no big gaps or footholds works well, using closeboard or solid panels with gravel boards so there are no holes at the bottom to squeeze under and no horizontal rails on the outside to climb. Make sure any trellis, steps, bins or raised beds are kept away from the fence line so they cannot be used as a launch platform, and if you have a very agile breed, consider going to the full 1.8 metres and keeping the top run simple and level rather than decorative.

Concrete fence posts are the “fit and forget” option for many UK gardens. They are very strong, do not rot, and pair neatly with concrete or timber gravel boards and standard 6ft fence panels, with the panel simply sliding into the post slots. Timber fence posts are lighter and easier to work with, and they are the simpler choice if your run has odd widths, awkward corners, or you want flexibility later for gates or non standard bays. They do need more attention over time because timber can move and eventually decay at ground level, even when pressure treated, so the lifespan often comes down to ground conditions and how well they are set and protected. In practical terms, concrete posts need a bigger, neater hole because you’re dealing with more weight and you want a solid, well-packed footing. Timber posts can often be installed with a slightly smaller hole and are easier to plumb and tweak as you go. Slotted concrete posts make panel fitting quick, but you have less adjustment on uneven ground and the bay width must be accurate so the panel drops into both slots. With timber fence posts, panels normally side-fix with brackets or panel clips, which makes levelling easier on a slope and is more forgiving if a bay is short. In windy spots, both can perform well if posts are deep enough and you use gravel boards to keep panels off the ground, but concrete posts tend to feel more rigid. Near hedges or trees and on uneven ground, timber posts are often easier because you can adjust fixings and deal with roots, whereas concrete posts are heavier to manoeuvre and less flexible once set. If you want, tell me your fence height and how exposed the garden is, and I’ll point you towards the most practical setup using our fence posts, fence panels, trellis panels and gravel boards.

In a small city garden, think vertical first so you keep as much floor space clear as possible. Fix trellis panels to solid walls or your own posts set just in front of existing fences, rather than hanging everything directly off older fencing. A mix of narrow, full-height trellis “screens” and shorter fence topper trellis sections works well, giving you places for climbers without making the boundaries feel heavier. Add wall planters and slim shelves at different heights for herbs and small shrubs, and, where you can, run a narrow raised bed or trough (even 200–300 mm deep) along the base so roots have decent soil. Keep timber off the ground on small feet or a gravel board, and use stainless or exterior screws so fixings do not stain or fail early. Plan your planting so the garden feels green from key viewpoints, for example outside the back doors or from a seating area. Use evergreen climbers on the main trellis panels for year-round cover, then mix in seasonal colour closer to eye level in wall planters. Avoid overloading one section of fence with heavy troughs and very dense planting, especially if the posts are old, and do not use fence posts to support extra structures like pergolas or shade sails, these should always have their own posts and footings. Before drilling into walls or boundaries, check for buried services and be sure you know who owns each fence, and if in doubt about fixings or structure, ask a local contractor to have a quick look before you start.

Start with a simple decked platform as the “floor” of the dining area, then give it a room feel using a pergola on its own concreted fence posts rather than fixing into existing fencing. Put your most solid screening, such as closeboard fence panels or hit & miss fence panels, on the windward or most overlooked side, sitting on concrete gravel boards or wooden gravel boards so the timber is kept off the ground and the structure feels substantial. On the other sides, switch to lighter screening like single slatted fence panels or horizontal slatted trellis so light and air still move through and the space does not feel boxed in. Keep overall heights within the usual 2 metre garden limit unless you have checked planning, and soften the framework with climbers in planters and a bit of low level lighting so the dining corner feels sheltered and private but still bright and connected to the rest of the garden.

For wheelchair and pushchair use, aim for a clear gate opening of at least 900 mm, with 1 000 mm preferred, and keep the threshold as level as possible with a firm, smooth surface either side so there is no step or deep gravel to drag through. Use heavy duty hinges so the gate swings freely, ideally opening away from the pavement, and fit a simple latch or lock that can be operated one handed at a comfortable height, paired with large pull handles on both sides so users are not fighting stiff catches.

For a shared alley gate, first agree everything with neighbours and check who owns the boundary and whether there is a formal right of way, as everyone who uses the alley, including bin crews and meter readers, must still have access. Aim for a clear opening of around 900 to 1000 mm, hung on heavy hook and band hinges to a solid post set in concrete, and use a key operated long throw lock with a thumb turn inside so it is secure from the street but easy to exit. Keep the gate strong and reasonably solid for privacy, fit the lock and latch high so it is less accessible from outside, and make sure all key holders, including any managing agent, have copies or a code so the arrangement works smoothly for all users.

For front gardens where visibility matters, lower fences with open designs work best. Traditional picket fencing is a popular choice because it defines the boundary without blocking sight lines, especially at heights around 600 to 900mm. You can still get a sense of privacy and kerb appeal without creating a solid wall at the driveway exit. Post and rail fencing works in a similar way and feels very open, though it offers less privacy. Anything solid above about 1 metre at the front can quickly restrict your view when reversing, particularly if the drive meets the road at an angle. If you want a bit more screening without losing visibility, a low fence panel with a trellis panel above can work, provided the solid section stays low and the trellis has generous gaps. This lets you see movement and be seen by oncoming traffic while softening the frontage with planting. Keeping planting low near the driveway exit is just as important as the fence style. When planning a front boundary, it’s worth looking at fence panels, trellis panels and garden gates together so the whole layout stays practical, safe and in proportion to the space.

The usual approach is to keep any new fence posts and concrete footings clear of the manhole frame and then “bridge” over the top with rails or a longer gravel board. Set posts either side of the inspection cover, leave the lid visible and free to lift, and span between the posts so the fence does not bear directly on the cover. Dig post holes carefully and shallow up as you get near the chamber so you do not undermine the brickwork or crack any incoming pipes. If the cover is exactly on the line, you can dog-leg the fence slightly around it, or create a short removable section or gate above the manhole so access is easy if it ever needs rodding. Avoid casting concrete around or over the lid, and never sink a post through the cover itself, as water companies and building regs expect manholes on shared or adopted drains to remain accessible. If in doubt, it is better to shift the fence line by a small amount than to risk damaging the chamber or making future maintenance impossible.

A simple way to turn an unused fence corner into a seating nook is to frame the space lightly so it feels intentional without closing it in. A pair of short horizontal sleeper benches set in an L-shape works well; you can stack two sleepers high for a comfortable seat and fix them with timber screws or rebar pins so they stay put. Keeping the backs open stops the corner feeling boxed in, but if you want a bit more enclosure, add a small section of slatted trellis above one side only so you create a backdrop without blocking light. Make sure the sleepers sit slightly forward from the fence so air can move behind them and moisture isn’t trapped against the panels. A gravel or paving pad under the seating helps keep the timber clean and dry. Finishing the nook with a single low panel or planter on the open side gives it a defined edge, and because everything is low and airy, the corner becomes a comfortable spot rather than a cramped one.

Start by checking the paperwork before you pick up a post auger. Look at your plot plan, transfer document or land registry title plan and see how the boundary is shown in relation to the house and any fixed points like corners, manholes or patio edges. If it is not clear, ask the site office or builder’s customer care team to confirm where they have set the boundary markers and whether there is a standard fence line they expect along that run. Walk the garden with a tape and the plan in hand, find any pegs or temporary posts, then mark what you believe is the line with string and canes. If neighbours have moved in next door, have a quick chat and show them what you are proposing so there are no surprises. Where there is any doubt, it is safer to keep your new fence just inside your side of the assumed line rather than right on top of a peg. That way, if the exact boundary is ever challenged, you are not asked to move concrete posts. Take photos of the markers and your string lines, and keep copies of any emails or notes from the builder confirming the layout. Once you are happy, set out post positions along the string, think about where gates, corners and changes in level will fall, and only then order posts, panels, gravel boards and cement products so you are not trying to force a standard layout onto a boundary that turns out to be slightly different. If anything on the plans is unclear, speak to your solicitor or land registry before you commit to digging.

For a small office pod, treat the most overlooked side like a normal boundary with solid closeboard or slatted panels around 1.8 m high, then return with lighter, more open slatted or trellis panels so the corner feels tucked away but not boxed in. Keep screens on their own posts with gravel boards, leave a maintenance gap around the pod, and soften the line with slim planters or climbers so the space feels green and calm.

Between decking and lawn a hard, defined edging works best so the grass has a clear limit and you have something solid to mow against, so we usually suggest a narrow strip of paving, setts or treated sleepers set level with the deck boards, with the deck either finishing a few millimetres proud or with a picture frame border to protect cut board ends. This gives you a clean visual break, keeps strimmers and mowers off the deck edges and makes it much easier to stop turf creeping onto the boards.

You can usually paint or stain new fence panels once the timber has had a little time to dry and weather, rather than straight away on the day they go in. As a guide, give them a few weeks in decent weather, then check that the surface feels dry, clean off any dirt or mould, treat any fresh cut ends first and test your chosen fence paint or stain on a small area to make sure it absorbs evenly before coating the whole run in dry, settled conditions.

In a typical UK garden most people end up re-coating fences every 2 to 4 years, depending on product quality and how exposed the fence is. South and west facing runs, or very windy corners, often fade fastest. Pressure treated timber will resist rot for many years, but it will still weather and benefit from a colour treatment to slow down surface cracking and water uptake. Cheaper stains and water-based colours are often closer to the 1–2 year mark, while good quality stains and fence paints can realistically look presentable for 3–5 years if the fence was sound and dry when you first coated it. In practice, a light, regular coat on a sound surface is better than a very heavy coat applied less often. Aim to wash off algae and dirt, let the timber dry thoroughly, then apply a single even coat on the “weather” side before it has completely faded, rather than waiting until it looks bare and then trying to bury it under multiple thick layers. Treat cut ends, tops of posts and any new repairs at the same time. If an existing finish is peeling or flaking, budget time for sanding or scraping back to a firm surface first, otherwise any new product, however good, will only stick as well as the old layer underneath.

Yes, it is perfectly acceptable to set timber or concrete fence posts in traditional concrete mixed on site, many installers do this for longer runs. A typical mix is around 1 part cement to 5 or 6 parts ballast, just wet enough to bind and compact without slumping like soup. Dig holes roughly three times the post width, usually 600–750 mm deep for a standard garden fence, and set posts on firm ground, not loose spoil. Tamp the concrete well around the post, form a slight fall at the top away from the timber so water runs off, and make sure every post is plumb in both directions with a brace or temporary screw into a rail while it cures. Compared to ready mixed post mix, site mixed concrete takes longer before you should load it. Post mix will normally grab within an hour or so in mild weather, but with traditional concrete it is sensible to leave posts supported until at least the next day and avoid heavy strain for 24–48 hours, longer if it is cold and wet. Work along the run in stages, keep your gravel boards and rails clear of wet concrete, and do not be tempted to over-water the mix just to make it easier to pour, weak sloppy concrete is more likely to crack and let posts move in the next spell of bad weather.

To make that corner usable, treat it like a tiny outdoor room. Start by sorting the floor, either a small square of decking on its own frame or a couple of slabs on compacted Type 1 with a slight fall away from the shed so water does not sit against the walls or fence. Keep any new structure just off the shed and fence with a small gap for airflow, and fix your decking frame to its own posts, not into the fence. An L-shaped bench works well in corners, built from treated timber or railway sleepers, with a seat height around 450 mm and depth around 450–500 mm so it is comfortable. Keep the bench structure self-supporting, sitting on the decking or on its own pads, rather than hanging it from the fence or shed. For the backdrop, a short run of trellis panels on new posts a few centimetres in front of the fence will soften the boundary without overloading the existing posts. You can then add climbers, string lights or a narrow shelf for plants to make it feel more enclosed and cosy. Check where the sun comes from and angle the seating so you are not staring straight at the shed wall, maybe turning the bench so you face across the garden instead. Avoid fixing heavy roofs, pergolas or shade sails to the fence or shed, these should always have their own posts and footings, and check for buried services before digging. If in doubt about anything structural or close to a boundary, speak to a local professional or your planning department before you build.

Built in benches are best treated as their own structure that sits in front of the fence rather than hanging loads off the posts or panels. Use separate sleeper or timber frames set on slab pads or short concrete footings, then fix the bench back to the fence lightly with brackets just to stop wobble, keeping the main weight on its own legs or supports. This way the fence still only carries wind load, while the seating is strong and safe to use.

On most domestic slopes it is better to step the fence in level bays rather than angle full panels, as this keeps posts plumb, panels square and looks neater in the long run. Set your posts to a level line for each bay, use gravel boards to take up height changes, and step the run down the garden; where gaps open under the fence on the low side, fit taller gravel boards, add short infill pieces or small retaining sleepers so pets and soil cannot escape under the line.

For screening around a hot tub or seating area you generally get a good balance between privacy and comfort with screens in the 1.5 to 1.8 metre range, high enough that you feel tucked away when seated but not so tall that the space feels boxed in, especially if you use slatted or decorative panels that let light and a little air through rather than completely solid boards on every side. A common approach is to run a full height 1.8 metre fence on the most overlooked side, then use slightly lower or more open screening on the return sides so you keep the main views blocked while still seeing some of the garden, and as long as overall heights stay within the usual 2 metre limit for garden boundaries in England, you can usually do this without extra permission, keeping posts set securely in concrete and lifting panels off the ground on gravel boards so the timber lasts in a wet area.

For simply marking a boundary and keeping pets off borders without blocking the view, low and open styles work best, such as classic timber picket (palisade) fencing around 0.6 to 1.0 metres high, or light post and rail with stock or welded mesh on the inside if you need a bit more containment. Modern horizontal slatted panels in a reduced height can also work well where you want a smarter, contemporary look while still seeing through, and in all cases using pressure treated timber, setting posts correctly in concrete and adding simple gravel boards where ground levels vary will give you a neat, durable boundary line that defines the garden without feeling closed in.

You can usually fix hanging baskets and planters to a garden fence without any issues provided you keep the weight sensible and use the right fixings so you are not overloading the panels. As a rule it is better to fix into posts or heavy rails where you can, using good quality galvanised screws and brackets rather than small nails, and if you are hanging several planters on a lighter panel it helps to fix a horizontal batten first, then hang the baskets from that so the load is spread rather than focused on one point. Avoid very deep, constantly waterlogged planters that put a lot of strain on the face of the panel, line the back of metal brackets where they touch the timber to reduce marking, and always double check you are fixing on your side of the boundary and not drilling into someone else’s fence without agreement.

For a balanced entrance, start by measuring the full opening and deciding whether you want equal leaf widths or one smaller leaf that’s used as a pedestrian gate day to day. Allow clearance for hinges and ground fall, then size the gates so they open without clipping walls or cars. Decorative driveway gates are heavier than standard garden gates, so use substantial gate posts set deep in concrete, or timber/steel posts sized to carry the extra weight without twisting. If you’re matching nearby fence panels, keep the gate tops and any decorative detailing aligned with the panel style so the whole frontage reads as one continuous run rather than a gate dropped into a gap. For ironmongery, choose hook-and-band hinges appropriate to the gate weight, along with a reliable drop bolt and central latch to keep the leaves steady in wind. A ground-mounted catch or socket for the drop bolt helps stop the free leaf drifting when parked cars create drafts. If the driveway has a slope, consider whether the gates need to open outwards (where permitted) or be hung higher to clear the rise. Where the gates meet your fence panels, keep post centres and heights consistent so the decorative pattern flows cleanly from panels to gates. If your chosen gate design doesn’t perfectly match the panels, use transition panels or short infill sections to blend the styles. Planning these details at the start ensures the entrance feels intentional, practical for daily parking and visually tied to the rest of your fencing.

You can use the existing chain link fence as the boundary line, but you should not rely on it to carry the weight and wind load of timber battens or slatted panels. The usual approach is to install a new run of posts just inside your boundary, set in concrete at 1.8–2.4 m centres, then fix horizontal rails and your battens or slatted fence panels to that new framework. Keep the timber off the ground with a small gap or a gravel board, and treat all cut ends before you screw the battens on using good exterior screws so the screen stays stable and straight. The old chain link can stay in place behind as a visual and security layer, but it should not be taking the strain. If the existing chain link posts are very solid, it is sometimes possible to bolt light framing to the posts themselves, then clad that framework, but you still need to think about extra wind load and whether the concrete footings and post size are up to it. Avoid fixing heavily into just the mesh or wire, it will pull out of shape and look untidy. Keep an eye on total height, most rear boundaries are typically around 2 m, and check with your local planning authority if you plan to go higher or are near a highway. Before digging for new posts, check for buried services, and if the boundary is shared or council owned, confirm who is responsible and what alterations are allowed before you start.

Build perimeter planters as independent boxes fixed to the deck frame, not sitting flat on the boards, with small gaps under and behind so water can drain and air can move. Line the inside with membrane, drill drainage holes, add a gravel layer at the base and keep the back a little off any fence or wall so you are never trapping damp against posts or panels. Bench seating can sit on the same framing rhythm, using solid supports tied into joists rather than just front legs on the deck surface. Aim for a seat height around 450 mm with a comfortable depth, fall the deck very slightly away from planters and fences, and use a picture frame border so water sheds cleanly and the edge looks finished.

Before letting a property, walk the whole boundary and deck line checking that posts are solid in the ground, panels and rails are not loose or rotten, and there are no sharp nails, broken boards or missing gravel boards that children or pets could get through. Make sure gates swing freely, latch securely and cannot trap fingers, and that any raised decking has firm, even boards, non slip surfaces where needed and secure handrails and balusters; recheck at least once a year and after any major storm.

To hide wheelie bins neatly, use a simple bin store or short run of fencing that screens views from the road while still letting you pull bins straight out on collection day, for example a pair of slatted or closeboard panels with a matching gate in front, or ready made timber or composite bin stores with hinged lids and doors. Set posts in concrete, keep the structure just high enough to cover the bins, allow airflow so smells do not build, and leave a firm, level surface inside so the wheels roll easily.

For a low maintenance courtyard, keep the layout simple and surfaces durable. Combine a composite or well treated timber deck as the main floor with narrow gravel or porcelain edging strips for drainage, then use full height closeboard or decorative slatted screens on the boundaries to create privacy and structure. Build in bench seating or raised sleeper planters along the fence line instead of loose pots, choose a few evergreen plants and outdoor lighting, and you will have a clean, easy care space that only needs the occasional sweep and light wash to stay smart.

For a front garden that feels smart but still welcoming, it usually works best to keep the fence lower and more open so you get definition without creating a solid barrier; classic choices are timber picket (palisade) fencing around 0.9–1.0 m high, or modern slatted/venetian styles that give you a clean, contemporary look while allowing light and views through. A matching pedestrian gate, simple concrete or timber gravel boards to keep the fence off the ground, and posts capped neatly all help the frontage look finished rather than fortress-like, and if you soften the line with planting on the inside – low shrubs, lavender, or grasses – you get privacy and structure while the property still feels approachable from the pavement.

For a hot tub beside a fence, treat the platform like a small building floor and keep it completely independent of the fence, using concrete pads or small footings under a heavy timber or steel frame, sized to the tub manufacturer’s load guidance. Use short spans with doubled joists where the tub sits, keep the top perfectly level, leave at least one clear service side and an access hatch to pumps and pipework, and maintain a small gap to the fence for airflow and maintenance.

For most front gardens with children and small dogs, a picket fence around 900mm to 1.0m high works well. This height is low enough to keep the garden open and friendly, but tall enough to act as a clear barrier and slow anyone heading straight for the pavement. Choosing closely spaced pickets also matters, as wide gaps make it easy for small dogs to squeeze through and tempting for children to climb. Match the fence with a picket gate of the same height and make sure it has a reliable latch that sits out of reach of young hands. Fixing the panels to solid fence posts and keeping the bottom edge close to ground level improves safety without making the fence feel heavy. Traditional picket fence panels are a good balance of visibility, control and kerb appeal for family front gardens.

Yes, you can use decking boards vertically to make a simple privacy screen, but treat them more like heavy cladding than a normal fence panel. Use decent posts set in concrete and fix the boards to sturdy horizontal rails or a timber frame so the weight is spread, especially if you go up to around 1.8 m. Keep the boards a little off the ground or on a gravel board so the end grain is not sat in water. Leave small gaps (around 5–10 mm) between boards so they can dry and move, and fix with good exterior or decking screws, two per rail at each fixing point. Any cut ends should be brushed with end-grain preservative, and if the boards are only treated on the outside, try to use the treated face outward. Expect the screen to be heavier and more solid than a typical fence panel, so think about wind load and keep spans sensible or use a slightly more open slatted layout if the area is very exposed.

Yes, concrete fence posts and concrete gravel boards can be painted so they blend in better with timber fence panels. Use a masonry paint designed for exterior use, as this will cope with weather and movement far better than standard paint. New concrete should be left to fully cure and dry before painting, usually a few weeks, and the surface needs to be clean and dust free so the paint bonds properly. A primer or stabilising solution helps improve adhesion, especially on smooth concrete. Two thin coats of masonry paint will give the best finish and longevity. While you cannot stain concrete in the same way as timber, choosing a neutral or timber tone can soften the look and help the posts and gravel boards sit more comfortably alongside wooden fencing.

Fence panels and fence posts need to be properly dry before you apply paint or stain, not just surface dry. After rain, that usually means waiting at least 24 to 48 hours in warm, breezy weather, and longer if it is cool or damp. Pressure treated timber holds moisture for longer than untreated wood, so rushing the job can lead to poor absorption, patchy colour or peeling later on. A simple check is the touch test and the splash test. If the timber still feels cool or damp, or water darkens the surface rather than soaking in straight away, it is not ready. You can also press a bit of kitchen roll against the wood. If it comes away damp, wait. Giving the fence time to dry properly will make any paint or stain last far longer and look much better.

Constant ground moisture will shorten the life of any timber fence post, even pressure treated ones, so it is worth tackling both installation and ground conditions. In boggy areas, posts should always be set in concrete rather than soil, with the hole dug slightly deeper and backfilled with concrete that is domed at ground level to shed water. Using gravel boards to keep fence panels off the soil also helps, as does choosing heavier duty fence posts rather than lighter sections. If the area stays wet year round, improving drainage will make the biggest long term difference. Simple land drains or a soakaway can reduce standing water and slow down rot dramatically. Where drainage is not practical, concrete fence posts are often the most reliable option, as they are unaffected by damp ground and still work with standard fence panels and gravel boards.

For a standard 3 ft garden gate, we usually recommend 100 x 100 mm timber posts or the equivalent concrete slotted posts if you want a low-maintenance option. A gate of that size is light enough for medium-duty tee hinges or 12–14 inch hook-and-band hinges, and a simple latch set is normally sufficient. Timber posts need to be set in concrete at a sensible depth, while concrete posts carry the weight easily with the gate hung from timber infill battens fixed into the rebate. For a taller or heavier closeboard gate, step up to 125 x 125 mm timber gate posts or robust concrete gate posts because the extra height puts far more leverage on the fixings. These gates should always be hung on heavy-duty hook-and-band hinges, usually 18 inches or longer, as they spread the load properly and keep the gate square over time. The ironmongery needs matching strength – a sturdy latch and drop bolt help control movement in windy conditions. Requirements don’t change dramatically between timber and concrete posts, but concrete offers greater long-term stability and is the better choice for very tall or heavy gates. Timber posts are perfectly suitable as long as they’re pressure treated, sized correctly and set deep enough to resist twisting.

Trellis can work as a light visual barrier on top of a small retaining wall, but it should be treated as decorative rather than as a load-bearing safety rail. If you want something that offers a little guidance at the edge without feeling enclosed, a sturdy slatted or square trellis fixed to short posts is usually the neatest solution, as it keeps the area open while adding just enough presence to highlight the drop. For fixing, the important part is the posts rather than the trellis itself. Use wall-top post brackets or resin-fixed studs into the masonry so each post is properly anchored and cannot rock. Posts of around 600–900 mm are normally enough for light screening; anything much taller will introduce too much leverage on the fixings. Keep the trellis height modest so it remains visually light and doesn’t imply it can safely lean on. As long as it’s installed with secure fixings and sensible height, trellis is a good way to soften the transition between levels. Just bear in mind that if you need a genuine guardrail for fall protection, you should upgrade to a purpose-designed balustrade rather than relying on decorative screening.

For low seat walls, treat the railway sleepers as a separate structure that happens to run near the fence, not something built off the posts. Aim for a finished seat height of around 430–460 mm using one or two courses of sleepers on a compacted hardcore or concrete strip, with the front face vertical or very slightly raked back. Keep at least a 25–50 mm gap between the back of the sleepers and the fence or gravel boards so you are not trapping moisture or pushing on the posts. Use long landscaping screws or coach screws to stitch the sleepers together at corners and along the length, and fix them down with rebar pins or short, hidden posts concreted in front or behind, away from the fence footings, so the wall cannot creep or tip when people sit on it. To protect the timber, avoid burying sleepers in soil wherever possible. Sit them on a firm, level base with a thin gravel layer for drainage, and bring soil or planting up to them with a slight fall away so water sheds rather than pooling at the back. If you are forming a planter behind the seat, line the soil side with a membrane or damp proof liner and leave that small gap at the fence so the back of the panels can still breathe. Treat all cut ends generously, and never fix into fence posts or concrete posts to “save time”, as that will overload the fence and make future repairs difficult. Regularly check that the sleepers stay solid and that you have not accidentally built soil or decking up around the fence bases while creating the seating.

For a garage wall, fix fan trellis so it sits slightly off the brickwork, not flat against it. Mark out where you want the centre of each rose, usually 300–450 mm above the soil so the graft union sits clear of wet ground, then position the trellis so the base is just above that. Use plastic or stainless steel spacers behind the battens so there is a 20–30 mm air gap between trellis and wall, and fix with exterior masonry screws and plugs into sound brick, not crumbling mortar. Keep the bottom of the trellis off the ground on small packers so it does not wick up moisture. As the rose grows, fan out the main stems at 30–45° and tie them loosely with soft ties so you get plenty of flowering side shoots rather than one tall, bare stem. Along a boundary, it is usually better to put fan trellis on your own posts just in front of a fence rather than screwing directly to old panels. Set slim posts in concrete with a gravel board or small gap at the bottom, then fix the trellis to the posts, again leaving a small air gap. This keeps weight and moisture off the fence and still gives the roses a good framework. Avoid using the same posts to carry heavy structures like pergolas, and do not pack soil or mulch up over gravel boards. With any support, check fixings once a year, trim congested growth so air can move behind the foliage, and tie in new stems while they are flexible so the rose covers the trellis evenly without being forced tight against the wall or fence.

Start by clearing a metre or so back from the existing fences so you can see what you are working with. Cut back shrubs, lift anything fragile out of the way and remove old panels carefully so you can inspect the posts and bases. Confirm where the legal boundary is before you move any lines, and check for manholes, drains and obvious services that might affect post positions. Once the line is clear, knock in temporary pegs at each end of a run and pull a tight string line at the height you want the tops of the gravel boards or panels, checking with a level so you understand how much fall there is along each boundary. Measure each run along the string and sketch a simple plan with lengths, corners, drops in level and gate positions marked. Divide each straight run by your chosen bay width, usually around 1.8 m, so you know how many bays, posts, panels, gravel boards and bags of cement products to allow for, and round up to cover cuts and awkward bays. On sloping ground, decide where you will step the fence and note any bays that will need cutting down or extra infill. Before you order, walk the garden with your plan and the tape again, checking access for materials and marking each post position with paint or pegs so you can set out quickly and keep the new fence dead straight when you start digging.

A simple way to hide compost heaps and water butts is to build a short run of closeboard or slatted panels on concreted posts, set just high enough to block the view while leaving plenty of gaps for airflow. An L shaped screen in the corner works well, and you can use trellis or open slats on the top section so the area feels lighter and does not trap smells. Keep at least one side fully accessible with a simple gate or a wide opening so you can turn compost and swap bins easily. Set the utility corner on slabs or gravel for clean footing, and plant climbers or a narrow shrub row in front of the screen on the garden side so the whole section reads as a planted feature rather than a storage area.

A simple dog wash works best as a small paved or decked bay with drainage, a cold tap nearby and a bit of screening so it feels tucked away. Use non slip slabs or textured decking tiles, keep the area level but very slightly falling to a gravel strip or gully, and have a short post or wall mounted hook to clip a hose or handheld shower head so both hands are free for washing. To stop it looking too “utility”, use low fencing or slatted screens around one or two sides at about 1.2 to 1.5 metres, matching your main garden style, and hide any pipework behind the screen. A narrow sleeper planter or pot row on the outside softens the view, while inside the wash bay you can add a small storage box for towels and shampoo so everything stays neat and ready for muddy returns.

Sliding garden gates can work very well on tight driveways because they do not swing into the parking space or pavement, but they do need clear run-back along the fence line that is at least the width of the opening plus a little extra. You will need a substantial gate post or support frame at the latch end, good quality rollers or a cantilever system sized for the gate weight, and a solid base or track that stays level and free draining so it does not clog with gravel and debris. On most domestic drives a simple ground track with guide posts is fine if the surface is firm concrete or tarmac, while cantilever systems are better where you cannot cut into the drive. Keep fence panels set back to give the gate room to travel, plan where any motor or lock will sit if you want automation, and make sure you have safe pedestrian access as well as vehicle access so people are not squeezing around the gate or walking in the road.

Low front garden fencing works well at around 0.9 to 1.0 metres high, for example a simple picket or low closeboard run with one feature post by the entrance that carries a clear house number plate, metal numerals or a small plaque. Choose a strong contrast colour so the number is easy to read from the pavement and, if the area is dim, add a small solar or low voltage light above or beside the plate so visitors and delivery drivers can spot it easily in the evening.

That’s usually normal and nothing to panic about. Most softwood fence posts (including pressure treated posts) will develop small lengthways cracks as they dry and move with the weather. It’s called “shakes” and it happens because timber shrinks across the grain. The key point is the direction: long, thin splits that follow the grain are common and rarely affect strength, especially if the post is properly set in concrete. What you would keep an eye on is anything more serious, like a split that opens right through the post, cracking that runs across the grain, a post that’s twisting badly, or movement at the base when you push it. If the cracks are hairline to a few mm wide and the post still feels solid, it’s generally fine. To help reduce future issues, make sure the post tops are protected so water does not sit on them, and try to keep soil, mulch and gravel from being banked up against the timber for long periods. If you’re ever unsure, a quick check on spacing, post size and how they’ve been concreted can tell you a lot, and we can point you towards the right fence posts, post caps and cement products if you’re planning any tweaks.

Hit and miss fence panels are a good compromise when light is a concern. The alternating boards leave narrow gaps that let daylight and airflow through, so they feel lighter than a solid closeboard fence while still giving good privacy from most angles. They are particularly useful where gardens run north to south and neighbours worry about losing sun along the boundary. From each side the fence looks similar, with no clear front or back, which often helps avoid disputes. You will see a little through the gaps when standing close, but from normal garden distances it still feels screened. Compared to standard solid panels they soften the boundary without sacrificing strength, and they work well with gravel boards and proper fence posts to keep everything neat and durable.

Omega lattice fence panels work best around patios when they are used as partial screens rather than solid walls. Fixing panels on two sides of the seating area, with the open lattice facing outward, gives privacy where you need it while still letting light and air through. Keeping the height sensible, usually around 1.5m to 1.8m, stops the space feeling enclosed and still provides enough structure for climbing plants. Set the panels between solid fence posts and consider leaving small gaps or mixing lattice with open sides to soften the layout. Climbers like jasmine or honeysuckle will quickly fill the lattice and add privacy naturally without blocking views straight away. Omega lattice panels are ideal for this kind of garden zoning, especially when combined with matching timber and tidy post spacing to keep everything looking deliberate rather than boxed in.

Yes, it can make panels and posts rot faster if bark mulch is piled up against them long term. Mulch holds moisture and stops the timber drying out, so the bottom edge of a fence panel and the base of fence posts stay damp for longer after rain. Even pressure treated timber will last better if it can dry properly. Best practice is to keep a small clear strip so nothing is permanently touching the timber. As a rule of thumb, leave a 50 to 75mm gap below the bottom of your fence panels and keep mulch 25 to 50mm back from the face of the fence. If your ground level is already high, it’s worth fitting gravel boards (timber or concrete) so the boards take the wet and the panels sit clear. The same goes for fence posts: keep mulch below the post’s main body where you can, and avoid building soil up around it. If you want a neat finish, a narrow gravel strip along the fence line works well and keeps splashes down too. If you need them, we do matching gravel boards, fence posts and fixings that make it easy to lift panels clear and protect the parts that usually fail first.

A neat option is to build a narrow L-shaped screen using short fence panels, slatted screens or trellis panels fixed to proper fence posts set in small concrete footings or bolt down shoes. Keep the screen just high enough to hide the bins when you look out of the patio doors, and leave at least a full bin width plus a bit of manoeuvring space between the screen and the wall so you can wheel them straight out on collection day. Slatted panels or trellis keep it light and airy, and you can add planters or climbers in front so it feels like a small green feature rather than just a bin store. If space is really tight, think about a simple “doorway” instead of a full enclosure. For example, one short fixed panel set at right angles to the house, plus a lightweight hinged trellis gate across the front. That hides the view from the patio but swings right back when you need to move the bins. Use treated timber, decent ironmongery and, if the bins sit close to the fence, fit a gravel board or small upstand so the wheels and lids are not constantly bashing the bottom of your screens.

Using post mix in light rain is usually fine as long as the holes are not filling with water and the mix is kept reasonably dry while you pour it. Keep the bags under cover, dig your post holes, then cover them with a board or plastic sheet until you are ready so they do not turn into puddles. Once you have poured the post mix, trowel the top to a slight dome around the post so water runs away rather than sitting against the timber fence post. Cold weather is more of a concern. Most post mix products state not to use them when the air or ground temperature is at or below freezing, or if frost is expected before they have properly cured, as the water in the mix can freeze and weaken the concrete. If you are close to that, try to work in the milder part of the day, use slightly warm (not hot) water if the instructions allow, and insulate the top of the footing with old blankets or boards after the first set to keep the worst of the frost off. If the ground is frozen solid, or the forecast is for hard overnight frost, it is better to delay setting posts if you can and get other prep done instead, such as clearing the line or cutting fence panels and gravel boards to size. Whatever the weather, brace your posts well so they cannot move while the post mix goes off, and always follow the guidance printed on the particular post mix you are using, as different brands have different setting times and temperature limits.

It is fine to have a gravel strip along the fence, but try not to bury any timber. Keep the gravel level below the bottom of your fence panels and on the garden side of the gravel board, so water is not constantly held against the wood. If you are using a weed membrane, use a breathable fabric and stop it at the front of the gravel board rather than running it up behind the fence, so any water at the base can still drain away. Around timber fence posts it helps to keep the stones a little shallower, or leave a small clear ring, so the top of the concrete footing and the post base can dry out instead of staying buried. On very heavy clay or where there is hard paving behind the fence, make sure there is a slight fall or a narrow gap somewhere for water to escape, so your neat gravel strip does not become a wet trench sitting tight against the timber.

For most rental gardens it is usually worth going straight to concrete fence posts and concrete gravel boards, especially if you expect to keep the property for a while. Tenants are less likely to stay on top of minor maintenance, so a fence that is less vulnerable to rot at ground level generally works out cheaper over its life. Concrete posts also make it easier to swap individual panels if they get damaged, which is handy between tenancies. The upfront cost and labour are higher, and access can be trickier because of the weight, but once they are in properly they tend to need very little attention. Decent pressure treated timber posts and wooden gravel boards can still be fine on a sheltered, smaller rental garden or where budget is tight, but you need to install them well and accept that they will not last as long as concrete. Set posts deep enough in concrete, keep all timber clear of the soil on a gravel board or small gap, and avoid hanging gates, pergolas or other loads off the same posts. If the property is in a windy or exposed spot, or you have already had posts fail at the base, upgrading to concrete posts and concrete gravel boards is usually the better value choice over repeated repairs.

A low fence or edging between lawn and borders works best if it is strong enough to take the odd kick from a football yet still looks neat, so we typically suggest treated timber picket runs at 0.3 to 0.6 metres high, or short decorative panels fixed to small posts set in concrete. For simpler edging you can use a narrow gravel board or sleeper on small pegs to give a clean mowing edge and a clear barrier for dogs without visually chopping the garden up.

For most domestic fencing jobs, quality bagged post mix is perfectly adequate and widely used. It is designed specifically for setting fence posts, is consistent from bag to bag, and removes the guesswork around mix ratios. When used correctly in a properly sized hole and finished with a slight dome to shed water, post mix will give more than enough strength and durability for standard fence posts in normal garden conditions. Mixing your own concrete with ballast and cement can be slightly stronger on paper, but in practice it rarely makes a meaningful difference for garden fencing. The long term life of a post is more affected by ground conditions, drainage and installation than the concrete itself. For long runs, post mix is usually quicker, cleaner and more reliable, making it the sensible choice unless you are dealing with unusually heavy loads or very poor ground.

You can mount a hose reel or tap to a fence, but only to something solid, not to the thin panel boards. Aim for a substantial timber gate post or 100 x 100 mm fence post, or fix a separate treated timber post in the ground just for the reel. Use heavy exterior screws or coach screws (with plugs in masonry or concrete) and, for a wall-mounted reel, assume the weight of a full hose and choose fixings accordingly. To avoid the post or panel face getting chewed up, fix a decent backing board first, then mount the reel or tap plate to that. A treated 18–25 mm thick timber board screwed firmly to the post spreads the load and makes it easier to replace or move the fittings later. Keep taps and pipework well supported with proper pipe clips, include an internal isolator for winter shut-off, and avoid fixing anything heavy to individual fence slats or rails, as the movement and weight can quickly loosen or damage a standard garden fence panel.

Outdoors, stick to stainless steel or properly coated fixings that are sold specifically for decking and fencing, and avoid bright steel or cheap zinc screws and nails that will rust and stain the timber. For feather edge closeboard, use galvanised ring shank nails or exterior wood screws long enough to go at least twice the board thickness into the rail, and angle them slightly so boards stay tight as the timber moves. For panels and general framing, choose heavy-duty exterior screws with a corrosion resistant coating, and pre-drill near board ends to avoid splitting. On decking, use purpose-made decking screws (stainless if you can) rather than nails, as they hold better and are easier to tighten if boards move. For posts, rails and gate fixings, use hot-dip galvanised coach screws, coach bolts or through-bolts with matching washers and nuts so the whole fixing is rust resistant, not just the head. Avoid mixing a lot of different metals in one place, and do not grind or cut fixings in a way that removes their protective coating. Whatever you buy, check the packaging says suitable for exterior or treated timber use, choose lengths that bite well without bursting through the face, and keep fixings out of constant wet spots by using gravel boards and good drainage so both timber and metal last longer.

Along tall fences the key is to improve the ground and pick plants that like dry shade. Work in plenty of composted bark or manure, then mulch annually to hold moisture and keep roots cool, and if you can, add a simple soaker hose before planting. Choose tougher shade tolerant shrubs and perennials such as hardy geraniums, ferns, heuchera, hellebores and evergreen climbers, and keep a narrow gravel strip at the fence base so panels and posts are not sitting in damp soil.

When your fencing materials arrive, lay panels flat on firm, level ground, raised slightly on bearers so air can circulate, and avoid propping them upright where they could fall or twist; keep them out of direct, strong sunlight where possible, because heating one face more than the other on hot days can encourage warping, and store posts off the soil too, ideally under a light, breathable cover so the timber can dry evenly until you are ready to install.

For a curved boundary, building the fence from individual picket pales is almost always the better option. Ready made picket fence panels are fixed and straight, so they tend to fight against a curve and leave gaps or awkward angles. Using loose picket pales fixed to horizontal rails lets you follow the curve gradually, adjusting the spacing slightly as you go so the line stays smooth. The curve does not need to be perfect. A series of small, gentle changes usually looks far better than trying to force straight panels into shape. The usual method is to set your fence posts along the curve first, keeping the spacing consistent, then fix flexible timber rails between them. You can then fix each picket pale individually, keeping the tops level while the spacing opens or closes by a few millimetres to follow the curve. This approach also makes repairs easier later on, as individual pales can be replaced if needed. If you are planning this sort of build, it is worth looking at our timber, fence posts and fixings together, as choosing the right section sizes and treated timber will make the job neater and help the fence last longer.

Some movement in new timber fence panels is normal, especially in the first few months. Pressure treated softwood continues to dry out after installation, and as moisture levels change you can see slight bowing, twisting or cupping in individual boards. This is part of how natural timber behaves outdoors and does not usually affect strength or lifespan, particularly on standard closeboard, waney lap or overlap panels. You should only be concerned if panels are badly distorted, pulling fixings loose, or affecting how the fence performs overall. Large gaps opening up, rails splitting, or panels no longer sitting properly between fence posts are signs to raise with the installer or supplier. Minor visual movement is expected, but anything that compromises stability or appearance beyond that should be looked at.

In a typical back garden, a properly installed pressure treated timber fence with gravel boards will often last around 15 to 20 years. That assumes decent ground conditions, posts set correctly in concrete, panels kept clear of soil, and no constant waterlogging. Gravel boards play a big part here, as they stop the bottom of the fence panels sitting in damp ground where rot starts quickest. Light maintenance helps extend that lifespan. Keeping soil and plants away from the fence base, replacing damaged panels promptly, and applying a stain or paint once the timber has weathered will all slow down wear. While no timber fence lasts forever, pressure treated panels and posts give a realistic long term solution for most domestic gardens without needing regular replacement.

Dip treated fence panels are given a surface coating of preservative, usually by being dipped or sprayed, which protects the outer layer of the timber only. Pressure treated panels are placed in a sealed chamber where preservative is forced deep into the wood under pressure, giving far more consistent protection throughout the panel. That treatment helps resist rot and insect attack for much longer, especially where panels are close to the ground or exposed to weather. In real garden use, pressure treated fence panels are usually worth paying extra for because they last longer with less maintenance. Dip treated panels can still be a budget option, but they rely on regular re treatment to keep them protected. If you want a fence that you can install and largely forget about, pressure treated panels, combined with proper fence posts and gravel boards, are the more durable and cost effective choice over time.

Fence panels are not really designed to carry heavy point loads, even if you fix into the rails. Most panels are made to resist wind pressure spread across the surface, not the constant pull of a heavy mirror or wall art hanging from a few fixings. Screwing straight into the rails can work for very light items, but with something heavy you risk the rails flexing over time, fixings pulling out, or the panel twisting, especially in wind. The safer approach is to create a solid fixing point that takes the weight away from the panel itself. That might be a timber backing board fixed through to the fence posts, or even better, separate posts set just behind the fence line to carry the load. This way the weight is transferred into the posts and ground, not the panel. It also makes the fixings more secure and reduces movement. If you’re setting anything up like this, it’s worth thinking about fence posts, timber and ironmongery together so everything is properly supported and you are not asking the panel to do a job it was never meant to do.

Yes, some fence designs are definitely less tempting than others. Solid fence panels with horizontal rails or wide framing can act like a ladder, especially for curious kids. Panels with vertical boards and minimal visible rails are harder to get a foothold on. Closeboard fencing is usually better than overlap for this, as the boards run vertically and the rails sit behind the panel. Keeping the fence height sensible also helps. Very tall panels can feel more like a challenge than a boundary. Another good option is to combine fence panels with trellis panels fixed on top rather than using trellis on its own at child height. Trellis higher up keeps privacy and light without creating easy climbing points lower down. Avoid decorative horizontal slats or wide gaps that invite feet and hands. Making sure fence posts are set firmly and panels are properly fixed reduces movement too, which discourages climbing. If you are reviewing the layout, it’s worth looking at our fence panels and trellis panels together, as mixing the two in the right way often gives a safer, more practical result without losing privacy or security.

You can usually keep leftover fence stain for the following season as long as the lid is sealed tightly and the tin is stored off the floor in a cool, dry shed that doesn’t freeze. Most modern water-based stains remain usable for a year if they’re protected from extreme temperatures, though they may need a very thorough stir before use. If the product has skinned over, smells sour or won’t mix back to a smooth consistency, it’s best to dispose of it and use fresh stain. If you only have small amounts left, using them up now or combining partial tins into one well-sealed container often reduces the risk of it spoiling over winter.

Beside a driveway or parking area it is worth choosing a heavier specification, since the fence is more likely to see the odd bump or scrape; we normally recommend concrete posts with concrete gravel boards and a heavy duty closeboard or solid panel so minor contact will not damage the structure, and where space allows it helps to set the posts slightly back from the hard standing or use a low timber or kerb upstand at wheel height so vehicles are guided away from the main fence line.

This is completely normal with pressure treated softwood. Timber colour varies naturally depending on the tree, moisture content and how recently it has been treated. Treatment solution uptake can differ from batch to batch, so one delivery may look greener or darker than the next even though the specification is the same. Fence posts, gravel boards and other timber products are supplied for performance, not colour matching. Once the timber is installed outdoors the difference usually softens. Sunlight, rain and general weathering fade the treatment colour over time, and batches tend to blend together after a few months. If a uniform finish matters, allowing the timber to weather before applying a fence paint or stain will give the most consistent result across panels, posts and boards.

A good approach is to add a “discreet” safety layer on the garden side so the decorative face still shows. For timber gates and railings, you can fix close-spaced vertical boards or matching pickets behind the open pattern, keeping gaps under about 100 mm so a child cannot get a head or body through. Another neat option is to screw on clear polycarbonate sheets or acrylic panels from the inside, which block openings but keep the original design fully visible. Where you want something lighter, you can use fine welded mesh or a small-aperture trellis panel fixed to the back of the gate and between railing posts. Paint or stain it to match, and keep all cut edges smooth so there are no sharp wires or splinters at child height. Try to avoid creating horizontal rails that act as “ladders”, and make sure any new infills are fixed with corrosion resistant screws, not staples, so they stay put if leaned on. Finally, look at the hardware. Fit a child resistant latch at adult height, add a drop bolt or padlock point if you need to keep a gate firmly shut, and stop or cap any decorative spikes that could be a hazard if a child slipped. Whatever you add, check that the gate still opens fully without binding and that any manholes, paths or nearby fence panels remain accessible for maintenance.

To protect fence bases from strimmers and mowers, the simplest fix is to keep the timber off the grass and give yourself a hard edge to work to. Concrete or timber gravel boards under the panels stop the blades ever touching the fence, and a narrow mowing strip of paving or setts along the line means you can mow right up to the edge without needing to strim against posts. You can also fit plastic strimmer guards to posts and keep grass slightly back with a shallow gravel strip.

This is normal for timber railway sleepers and comes down to how they are cut and graded at the sawmill. Most new softwood sleepers are sawn from large sections and finished to a structural size rather than a furniture grade one, so rounded edges, occasional bark pockets and small missing corners are expected. Different mills and different logs will produce sleepers that look slightly tidier or rougher, even though they are sold as the same product. In practical terms it makes very little difference to performance. For retaining walls, raised beds and steps, strength and treatment matter far more than cosmetic finish, and sleepers with rough edges will perform just as well as sharper cut ones. If appearance is important, minor trimming or sanding can tidy them up, or you can face the best edges outward. Once installed and weathered, the visual differences tend to blend in naturally.

The best way to fix bamboo or reed screening is with plenty of light, evenly spaced fixings rather than a few tight ones. Cable ties, galvanised wire or stainless steel screws with washers all work well, fixed through the screening and into the fence rails rather than just the boards where possible. Start at the top, pull it snug but not drum tight, then work down, fixing every 300 to 400mm along the edges and across the middle. This spreads the wind load and stops the screening flapping without putting unnecessary strain on the fence panels or fence posts. Avoid nailing directly through thin boards, as this is more likely to split timber over time. Damp is worth thinking about, especially with older panels. Bamboo and reed can trap moisture if they are pressed hard against the fence and never get a chance to dry. If you can, leave a small air gap rather than pulling the screening flat tight to the timber. Even a few millimetres helps airflow. It also helps to stop the screening just short of ground level so it does not sit in wet soil or mulch. If the fence is already close to the ground, gravel boards can lift the panels clear and protect the most vulnerable area. Done neatly, screening is a good way to extend the life and look of existing fence panels without creating new problems.

A simple first step is to add small “hedgehog gaps” at the base of solid fence panels or gravel boards so wildlife can move between gardens. A typical size is around 130 x 130 mm cut into the gravel board or the very bottom of a panel, never into the fence posts themselves so you do not weaken the structure. Place them in a corner or behind planting where pets are less likely to notice, and avoid them altogether on boundaries where a small dog or rabbit could squeeze through and escape onto a road. To keep privacy but make things feel lighter, you can swap some full height fence panels for solid panels at the bottom with trellis panels on top. This still gives a clear boundary and screens you when seated, but the open trellis lets light and birds through and works well with climbing plants like honeysuckle or clematis. Slatted panels or partial slatted sections between solid bays can do a similar job, softening the boundary while still being secure for most pets. Planting then does the rest of the wildlife work. A mixed hedge or a run of shrubs and native plants on your side of the fence gives cover, nesting spots and food, and you can tuck a small log pile and shallow water dish into a quiet corner for insects, frogs and hedgehogs. Just keep plants slightly off the fence line so they do not trap damp against panels, gravel boards and fence posts, and you will have a wildlife friendly boundary that still looks tidy and clearly marks where your garden ends.

Cement products and post mix are very sensitive to moisture in the air, so the key is to keep them bone dry and off the ground. Store unopened bags in a cool, sheltered place like a garage rather than a damp shed, on timber pallets or boards so they are not sitting on concrete. Keep them covered with a plastic sheet if there is any chance of condensation or leaks from above, and stack them no higher than you can lift safely. Use the oldest bags first and avoid dragging them around, any that feel lumpy or have gone “crispy” inside are starting to go off and are best used quickly for non-critical jobs or disposed of. Part used bags really need extra protection. Roll the top down as tight as you can, tape it, then slide the whole bag into a strong rubble sack or airtight plastic tub with a lid. Store these indoors or in the driest part of the garage, not in a cold, damp outbuilding. Try not to keep opened bags for months, buy roughly what you expect to use in a few weeks and top up rather than stockpiling. Before you use any stored bags, break them up by hand, check for hard set lumps and, if in doubt, do not rely on old product for structural posts or footings, fresh mix is cheaper than having to redo a fence run that moves.

A self closing spring works best with a latch that will “catch” automatically as the gate shuts, rather than something you have to line up by hand each time. A simple ring latch or thumb latch is usually fine as long as the keep is angled slightly so the latch bar can ride up and drop in when the spring pulls the gate closed. Gravity or magnetic latches are also a good option if you want a positive click shut without having to use a key every time. Try to avoid relying on a loose padbolt or shoot bolt as the only catch, they tend to slam, bounce off the keep and can be awkward for children and visitors to use if the spring is strong. When you fit the spring, start on the lightest tension setting and only tighten enough that the gate closes reliably against the latch. Mount a solid stop on the closing post so the gate does not over-travel, and add a rubber bump stop if you are worried about it slamming. Position the latch at a sensible height so adults can reach it easily but small children cannot trap fingers, and check there is a small clearance gap so the latch parts do not grind as the spring pulls the gate shut. Once everything is fitted, open and let the gate close from different angles a few dozen times and tweak the spring and latch alignment until it shuts firmly but smoothly, then finish with decent quality garden gate furniture for the lock or padbolt if you need extra security.

For large double timber gates you will normally want a proper hook and band hinge set on each leaf, sized at least half the gate width and fixed to substantial gate posts set deep in concrete. Most driveway gates use two hinges per leaf as standard, but on particularly tall or heavy gates a third hinge can help spread the load. Go for galvanised or heavy duty adjustable hinges rather than light tee hinges, and fix with coach screws or through-bolts into the frame, not just small woodscrews. Make sure the posts are independent of any fencing so the weight of the gates and the strain of opening and closing are not trying to twist nearby panels or fence posts. For control and security, fit drop bolts to lock the leaves in place, usually one on the closing leaf into the ground and often a second to hold the slave leaf against the centre stop. A proper centre stop in the drive (either surface mounted or set into the ground) stops the leaves being pushed through and protects the hinges. A simple latch is usually fine for courtyard use, but for a driveway where you bring cars in and out every day a long-throw lock or good quality key-operated latch is worth fitting so you can secure the gates from both sides. As a rule, choose heavy duty garden gate furniture for double driveway gates, since they are heavier, see more use and are more exposed to wind and weather than a small pedestrian gate.

Metal post supports are useful in the right place, but they are not a full replacement for concrete footings on a main boundary. Post spikes work for light, low fencing in firm, well drained ground, away from strong winds. Bolt down shoes are ideal where you already have a good concrete slab or wall. For 1.8 metre closeboard or heavy panels, especially on exposed boundaries, we still recommend full depth posts set in concrete.

This is normal with pressure treated fence panels and is part of the treatment process rather than a fault. The green patches, streaks or salt like marks come from the preservative salts in the treatment solution, and they are more noticeable on green treated panels, though you can see them on brown treated timber as well. They often appear as the timber dries out after treatment and delivery. Once the panels are installed outdoors, these marks usually fade and even out with weathering. Sun and rain gradually soften the colour and the surface evens up over time. They do not affect the performance or lifespan of the fence, and there is no need to replace panels because of them unless the timber itself is damaged.

All of our fence panels are pressure treated before delivery, so they are protected as supplied, but you can paint them if you want to change the colour. Fence paint sits on the surface and gives the strongest, most uniform finish, but it needs the timber to be dry and slightly weathered first or it can peel. Wood stain soaks into the timber rather than forming a skin, so it is more forgiving on treated panels and fades gradually instead of flaking. Exterior oils penetrate well too, but they offer less colour choice and need more frequent reapplication. The key is timing and product choice. Freshly treated fence panels and fence posts should be left to dry out for a few weeks before finishing, otherwise moisture in the timber can cause poor adhesion. If you want low maintenance and no peeling, a good quality exterior stain designed for pressure treated softwood is usually the safest option. Paint works well for solid colour, but only once the timber has properly weathered.

In most cases you need some level of access to replace a fence panel properly, and that usually means moving the shed, even if only slightly. Standard fence panels are designed to drop in from above or slide between fence posts, which is almost impossible if a shed is built tight against the boundary. Trying to patch from one side often leads to weak fixings and a short lived repair. If the shed really cannot be moved, the only workable alternative is to dismantle the old panels in sections and rebuild the fence in situ using loose boards or feather edge fixed to the rails. This is slower and more fiddly, but it can be done without full access. If you are planning future maintenance, leaving a small gap between sheds and fencing makes panel replacement far easier and avoids the same problem again.

It can happen, but it depends on what you use and how the fence is built. With standard timber fence panels, especially feather edge or waney lap, very thin stains and water based colours can shadow through if one side is much darker than the other, as the boards are relatively thin and absorbent. A proper exterior fence paint with good opacity is far less likely to bleed through, particularly if each side is given two coats and the timber is dry. Pressure treated timber can also draw colour through more than expected in the first season, so allowing panels to weather before painting helps. If you want to avoid any risk, use a solid colour fence paint rather than a stain, and accept that each side can be finished differently without problems in normal use.

A simple improvement is to make the gate “self-looking after”. Fit self-closing hinges or a small gate closer so the gate swings shut on its own, then use a gravity or magnetic latch that automatically drops into place when the gate closes. Put the latch at comfortable adult hand height, with a decent sized handle on the outside, so drivers can see and use it without hunting around or fighting a stiff catch. To keep it dog-secure, choose a latch that can be locked or clipped from the inside so wind or a nosey dog cannot push it open, but avoid fiddly padlocks for everyday use. Many self-latching catches have an internal tab you can drop into “dog proof” mode while still letting delivery drivers pull the ring or handle from the street side. A small, clear sign like “Please close gate firmly behind you” right by the latch often helps too, especially if the gate needs a positive push to click fully home.

For a typical waist-height picket fence using 60 x 60 mm or similar posts, go for heavy-duty post spikes with a 75 x 75 mm socket and around 600–750 mm spike length. Drive them in with a driving tool rather than hitting the socket, and keep checking for plumb as you go, as any twist in a spike will show in a light, straight run like picket fencing. Spikes work best in fairly firm, reasonably level ground with no big stones or rubble. Avoid them in very soft, boggy soil, on steep slopes, or where there are lots of buried roots or hardcore, as they will either move over time or be almost impossible to drive in straight. Even on firm ground, it is still worth digging and concreting for gate posts, corners, ends of runs, and anywhere the fence may get leaned on or knocked (for example near a driveway). In those spots a 100 x 100 mm post in concrete is much more rigid, and you can then use spikes for the lighter intermediate posts to save digging.

You can mount horizontal slatted trellis above a low brick wall very effectively by fixing short masonry-supported posts or wall-top brackets that carry the lightweight trellis without adding bulk; the simplest method is to bolt 600–900 mm timber or steel posts to the wall using heavy-duty wall-plate/post-base brackets set at your normal fence-bay spacing, then screw the trellis panels to the posts so the slats remain level and the whole run feels intentionally light rather than like a full fence. Aim for semi-open slatted designs (typically 15–25 mm gaps) because they add privacy in a courtyard while still letting sunlight and airflow through, which prevents the space feeling enclosed. When drilling the masonry, use sleeve anchors or resin-bonded stud fixings sized around M8–M10 depending on wall condition, always keeping fixings clear of brick edges. If the wall is uneven on top, pack the brackets level so the trellis line stays crisp, and if bays are wider than about 1.8 m, add an intermediate post to prevent flexing in windy conditions. This approach keeps the trellis securely supported, visually light, and perfectly aligned with the character of a small courtyard.

For most decorative gravel areas it is worth laying a good quality weed control membrane over a compacted sub base, then covering it with around 40 to 50 mm of gravel so the fabric is fully hidden and stones sit securely. The membrane helps cut down on weeds coming through from below, while the gravel depth gives a comfortable surface to walk on and keeps the stone in place without feeling like you are sinking underfoot.

One person can fit standard fence panels on their own, but it depends on the panel type and site conditions. Lighter panels like waney lap or overlap are manageable if the ground is level and posts are already set, whereas heavier closeboard or decorative panels are much more awkward to handle safely without help. Wind, uneven ground and tight access all make solo lifting harder. Using simple aids makes a big difference. Panel props, packers or temporary blocks can hold the panel at the right height while you fix it in place, and taking your time reduces the risk of damage or injury. For long runs or heavier panels, having a second person for lifting days is sensible, even if you do the rest of the work alone.

The first step is to pause before anything is altered and check what evidence you already have. Look for the line of the old fence or posts, changes in ground level, or fixed features like walls and paving that may indicate where the boundary has always run. Title plans can help, but they usually show general boundaries rather than exact lines, so they should be used as guidance rather than proof. After that, a calm conversation with your neighbour is usually the best move. Explain how the fence was set out and what it replaced, and listen to their concerns before positions harden. If there is genuine doubt, agreeing to a joint site visit with the installer or an independent surveyor is often cheaper and less stressful than moving panels twice or letting it escalate. From a fencing point of view, nothing should be repositioned until there is clear agreement on where the boundary sits.

Most garden decks do not need a full concrete slab underneath. What you do want is firm, free-draining ground. Scrape off soft turf, level the area with a slight fall away from the house, lay a good quality breathable weed membrane, then support your deck frame on proper pads or mini concrete footings rather than sitting the timber straight on the soil. That keeps joists out of the damp and makes the structure last longer. A layer of gravel on top of the membrane is helpful but not essential everywhere. It improves drainage, stops mud splashing up, and makes it nicer to crawl under the deck if you ever need to get to pipework, cables, fence posts or gravel boards along the boundary. You don’t need to fill the whole area deep with stone; a few centimetres over the membrane is usually enough in most gardens. Close to the house, make sure you do not cover air bricks and keep the top of the decking below the damp proof course. Next to the fence, leave a small gap so air can move and you can still maintain fence panels and fence posts. Whatever support system you use, keep all structural timber properly treated and off the ground on plastic or concrete supports, and use decent exterior fixings.

It is usually possible to reuse brick piers with new timber panels or slatted sections, as long as the brickwork is sound, not leaning, and the mortar joints are in decent condition. First measure the clear gap between each pair of piers at a few heights, because old work is rarely perfectly parallel; order panels or build infill frames to suit the tightest measurement and allow a few millimetres tolerance each side. Many people build simple timber frames or slatted screens cut to fit between the piers, then add a matching capping rail on top to tie the look together without loading the brickwork too much. To fix the timber securely, you would normally fit treated vertical timber “wall plates” or steel posts to the inside faces of the piers using frame fixings, sleeve anchors or resin anchors. The panel or slatted frame then screws to these plates rather than directly to the brick edges, which avoids blowing bricks and makes future replacement easier. On wider spans you can also use discreet galvanised angle brackets or straps fixed into the brick joints. Aim to keep all timber off the ground on small packers or a gravel board, seal or cap the tops of the piers to stop water getting in, and if any pier looks cracked or loose, get that repaired before hanging heavy new panels from it.

A simple way is to build an L- or U-shaped corner using solid fence panels or closeboard on the “privacy” sides, then finish the top third with slatted panels or trellis so light and air still flow. Fix the screens to proper posts set in concrete rather than existing weak panels, and keep the height around 1.8–2.0 m for privacy when standing. Leave a small gap at the bottom above a gravel board so the timber is not sat in water and cleaning water can escape. For the floor, continue your decking or create a small decked platform that falls gently toward a gravel strip or drainage gully, so shower water runs away rather than pooling against the fence. Narrow gaps between deck boards help drainage and keep it feeling airy underfoot. Add a simple hook rail for towels and a small step or mat by the hot tub, and use exterior grade fixings and pressure treated timber so the whole corner stands up to regular splashes and steam.

For future flexibility it is usually better to treat the fence as temporary and the wiring as permanent, so run the main low voltage cable at ground level rather than fixing it hard to every fence post and panel. A common approach is to route the cable just below the surface along the fence line in a shallow trench or in flexible conduit, then bring it up the fence only where each light is fitted. That way, if the fence panels, gravel boards or fence posts ever need replacing, you only disconnect a few light fittings instead of having to unthread or cut out a whole run of cable. Clipping cable directly to the fence can work for simple plug-and-play kits, but it ties the wiring to the life of the fence and makes it easy to snag or damage when panels are lifted out. If you do clip to timber, use proper clips or saddles rather than staples, keep the cable on the garden side away from rough edges, and leave a little slack at each post so movement does not strain the connections. In all cases keep the transformer or driver accessible in a dry, suitable location, avoid running 230 V mains along the fence itself, and think about strimmers and mowers when you decide exactly how close to the ground the cable should go.

Yes, most standard fence panels can be cut down to fit an awkward gap, but the method matters. With closeboard panels, you can usually trim a small amount off the width by cutting down the rails and boards together, ideally from the side that will sit against the fence post so the cut edge is hidden. Decorative panels are less forgiving, as cutting into the frame or pattern can weaken them or spoil the look, so only small reductions are sensible. To keep the panel strong, always re fix or add a batten to support the cut end before installing it between fence posts. Any freshly cut timber should be treated with a brush on preservative to protect it from moisture. If the gap is much narrower than a full panel, it is often better to infill with loose boards or feather edge rather than forcing a standard panel to do a job it was not designed for.

From a practical point of view, it is usually better to do the fencing first and then lay the patio. Fence posts need proper holes digging and concreting, which is messy work and much easier before any finished paving goes down. If you put the patio in first, you often end up having to cut slabs or dig through sub base to set the posts, which adds time and can weaken the edge of the paving. Doing the fence first also means you can set post positions and heights accurately without working around finished surfaces. Once the fence posts and panels are in, the patio can be laid neatly up to them with a clean edge. This gives a better finish and avoids the risk of damaging new slabs with tools, concrete or spoil. It also lets you plan details like gravel boards properly, so the bottom of the fence sits clear of the paving and water can drain away. When the fencing and paving are planned together, looking at fence posts, fence panels, gravel boards and cement products as one job usually leads to a tidier result and fewer compromises on site.

For a new fence you’ll want a clear working strip along the line, not just a narrow cut. As a guide, clear at least 600–900 mm on the fence side you’ll be working from, cutting brambles and ivy back to ground level and dragging all the loose material out of the way before you even think about post holes. Thick ivy on old panels or walls is easiest if you first cut all main stems at the base, let it die back for a few weeks, then peel it off rather than fighting it green. To stop it smothering the new fence straight away, it’s worth dealing with roots in the first metre or so of ground. Dig out the worst crowns and big root balls where your posts and gravel boards will sit, and if you use a stump / brushwood killer, apply it carefully to freshly cut stems and avoid splash on lawns, planting or the neighbour’s side. Even if brambles come back further out, they’ll be much easier to keep in check with the fence line itself kept clear. When you install the new fence, try not to leave any dead bramble or ivy mats trapped behind the gravel boards because they hold moisture and make future maintenance awkward. Dispose of arisings properly (green waste collection or tip) rather than burning right up against the boundary. Once the fence is up, a quick annual trim and spot-spray of any new shoots along the base will stop the tangle ever getting that bad again.

Those white, salty marks are usually crystallised treatment salts coming to the surface as the pressure treated timber dries, sometimes called efflorescence. It is quite common on freshly treated fence posts, gravel boards and rails, and is not a fault or rot, just part of the drying process after treatment at the sawmill. You do not have to scrub it off before installing the timber, but it is best to knock off any loose crystals with a stiff brush once the wood has had a chance to dry out. Before you paint or stain, let the timber weather for a while so moisture levels drop, then brush or lightly sand the surface and, if needed, rinse and allow it to dry again. Once the timber is dry and clean to the touch, a good quality exterior fence paint or wood stain will adhere normally and the white marks will not come back through the finish.

Removing concrete fence posts is heavy work, but there are a few realistic DIY approaches. The most common is to dig around the footing on at least two sides until you expose most of the concrete block, then use a long bar, scaffold pole or solid timber as a lever with bricks or a sleeper as a pivot. By levering the post and footing up a little at a time and backfilling the void as you go, you avoid having to lift the full weight in one go. If you can get hold of a manual post puller or a high lift jack, wrapping a chain or heavy strap around the post near ground level and jacking against a timber spreader makes the job easier and more controlled. If the footing is huge, very deep or tight against a wall or patio, it is often more practical to break it up rather than pull it out whole. An SDS breaker or small electric jack hammer will let you chip the concrete away in chunks, working carefully around any reinforcing steel and lifting the debris out piece by piece. Where all of that is unrealistic, the usual compromise is to cut the concrete post off a few inches below finished ground level with a disc cutter or angle grinder, knock the stump down, then backfill and compact the hole so you can set new fence posts, gravel boards and fence panels slightly to one side. In every case allow for serious weight, wear proper PPE, check for buried services before you start and plan how you will dispose of the old concrete, as a couple of bases can quickly fill a car or small skip.

It is best not to push a shed tight against a new fence if you can avoid it. When a shed sits directly against fence panels it traps moisture, reduces airflow and makes it difficult to inspect or maintain either structure. Over time that damp environment can shorten the life of both the shed and the fence, particularly along the lower sections. Leaving a small gap makes a big difference. Around 50 to 75mm is usually enough to allow airflow and give access for cleaning or repairs without wasting space. That gap also makes future panel replacement far easier. Planning this in from the start helps protect your fence panels and avoids the same access problems later on.

It is sometimes possible to repair a panel where only the bottom rail has failed, but it depends how the panel is built and how far the rot has spread. On many panels the boards are fixed through the bottom rail, so once that rail has gone the fixings loosen and the boards start to move. You can remove the panel, strip it back and fit a new treated bottom rail, but it is fairly labour intensive and only really worthwhile if the boards and top rail are genuinely sound. If the timber is already soft at the lower ends of the boards, the rot will usually continue even after a repair. In practical terms, replacing the panel is often the better long term option. A failed bottom rail is a sign the panel has been sitting in damp conditions for a while, usually from soil, mulch or splashback. Fitting gravel boards when you replace the panels makes a big difference, as they keep the timber clear of ground moisture and protect the part that normally rots first. If you are weighing it up, look at the cost and effort of repair versus a new panel plus gravel boards. In most cases, starting fresh gives a neater result and a longer service life.

A weed membrane with a narrow gravel strip along the fence base is generally a good low-maintenance idea. It stops most weeds, keeps strimmer damage away from the fence and looks tidy. Use a decent, breathable landscape fabric (not plastic sheet), overlap joints well and bring it just up to, but not up behind, the fence so any water can still drain away freely. The main thing is not to bury your timber. Keep the gravel level below the bottom of fence panels and on the garden side of the gravel board so water is not held against the wood. Around timber fence posts, either leave a small clear ring or keep the stones shallow so the top of the concrete footing and the post base can still dry out. If you have a solid surface or heavy clay behind the fence, make sure there’s a slight fall or a narrow gap so water can escape and you are not creating a permanent damp trench on the fence line.

You can usually bring an older timber gate back to a respectable condition without stripping it to bare wood, provided the structure is still sound. Start by giving it a gentle scrub with a stiff brush and a mild detergent solution to remove surface grime. Follow that with a fungicidal cleaner designed for external timber, which will deal with the mould and black spotting without the aggression of a pressure washer. Once fully dry, apply a good quality exterior wood preservative or stain to even out the colour and refresh the finish. Most tired gates respond very well to this process because the black marks are typically surface-level mould rather than deep staining. The time to replace a gate is when the rails or stiles have begun to rot, the gate has twisted beyond sensible adjustment, or the joints are starting to fail. At that point refurbishment tends to be short lived, and a new gate is the more cost-effective option.

Ordinary bagged post mix is fine for most standard fence posts because the loads are relatively light and spread evenly along the fence line. It sets quickly and is designed to hold posts upright rather than carry significant weight. For pergola posts or decking supports, the loads are higher and more concentrated, especially with wind uplift and people moving on the deck. In those cases, a stronger concrete made with ballast and cement, or a structural ready mix, is usually the safer choice. It gives better compressive strength and a more reliable footing over time. A good rule is to match the mix to the job. Fence posts, post mix works well and saves time. Pergola and deck posts, use a proper concrete mix and make the footing wider and deeper. You also want to keep timber clear of standing water, so setting posts on a small concrete pad or using a post shoe where possible helps with longevity. If you are buying materials together, it’s worth planning your cement products at the same time as your fence posts and timber so each part of the project is supported properly from the start.

With standard 6ft wide fence panels, the neatest and strongest way on a slope is usually stepping the panels down in level “drops” rather than raking (angling) the panels. Most ready-made panels are built square, so raking often leaves uneven gaps, awkward fixing points, and less support. Raking works better when you are building from rails and boards (or using a style designed to rake), or when the slope is very slight and you are happy for the top line to follow the ground. Gravel boards are mainly there to keep panels off wet soil, and they help you control the gap underneath. With concrete slotted posts, stepping is straightforward because the panel and gravel board sit in the post slots, but you are more limited in “fine tuning” the gravel board height independently. With timber fence posts and side fixings, you have more freedom to set the gravel board slightly differently to reduce gaps, then fix the panel above. Practical method: set your first post to the finished height you want, set the next post using a string line, then decide a sensible “drop” per bay (often 50 to 150 mm depending on the slope) so each panel stays level in its own bay, and trim the bottom gap by choosing the right gravel board height, locally digging out high spots, or adding a small amount of ground build-up where needed rather than leaving big open gaps.

If the concrete fence posts are only leaning slightly and are still solid in the ground, you can usually slide a new fence panel back in. Make sure the panel is the correct width and that it sits fully in the grooves without being forced, as tight fitting panels are more likely to lift out in high winds. Adding or checking gravel boards can also help keep everything seated properly. That said, leaning posts do increase the risk of repeat problems. If the lean is noticeable or getting worse, it is worth straightening or resetting the posts while the bay is empty, as this is the easiest time to do it. Correcting the post alignment now will reduce stress on the new panel and make the fence more reliable in future storms.

On closeboard fence panels, look for a heavy duty construction. You want feather edge boards (tapered) that sit tight and are well fixed to solid rails, not just a few staples. A stronger panel will have decent top and bottom rails, plus a middle rail on taller panels, and all fixings should be exterior grade and corrosion resistant. Closeboard is usually better in wind than lightweight lap because it is stiffer, but it is less “airy”, so the strength really comes from good fence posts and a solid install rather than trying to leave gaps. If you are fitting gravel boards, allow for their height in your finished fence height. A 150mm gravel board plus a 6ft panel makes the overall fence taller, or you choose a shorter panel to keep the same total height. Closeboard panels can work with both systems: slotted concrete fence posts are tidy and rigid but the panel width needs to be spot on to drop into the slots, while timber fence posts are more forgiving because you can side-fix with brackets or panel clips from our ironmongery range. For long term rigidity, keep panels off the ground with gravel boards, set posts deep with our cement products, and make sure every rail is properly fixed so the panel does not rack over time.

Decorative fence panels can be a good choice, but for privacy you need to pick the right design. Compared with solid fence panels they often give slightly less screening because of the slats or detail, but a fully framed panel with tighter slats or a solid lower section will still feel private. In windy gardens, a little airflow can help reduce the “sail effect”, but only if the panel is well made and the fence posts are strong and set properly. If you want extra height, pairing a standard fence panel with trellis panels on top often gives a better balance of privacy and wind performance than going very tall and fully solid. Fit panels on gravel boards to keep timber off the ground and to protect the base from splashback and strimmers. Set timber fence posts or concrete fence posts deep in concrete using our cement products, and keep bays level and tight. With timber fence posts, use our ironmongery brackets or panel clips and fix into the panel framing rather than thin slats. With slotted concrete fence posts, make sure the panel width fits the slots neatly to avoid rattles, and pack carefully if needed. If movement develops over time, add an extra fixing into each rail, tighten the ironmongery, and check the posts are still plumb before making any changes to the panels.

Waney lap (overlap) panels are the budget, quick-fit option. They give decent privacy, but they are lighter and can flex more in wind. Closeboard fence panels are heavier and stiffer, so they usually feel stronger and cope better with knocks, but they present more of a solid “sail” to the wind so the posts and fixings matter more. Slatted styles and decorative panels vary a lot by design. They can look smarter and let some air through, which helps in exposed gardens, but you need tighter spacing or a solid lower section if privacy is the priority. Maintenance is mostly about keeping timber out of wet soil and re-treating cut ends. Whichever style you choose, a panel that is fully framed with decent rails and proper exterior fixings will usually last longer than a flimsy frameless build. For construction, check the rails are solid and well fixed, and that boards are thick enough not to warp easily. Avoid panels that rely on thin staples at the ends. In exposed or driving rain locations, use gravel boards to lift panels clear of the ground and keep splashback off the bottom edge. Decide height by balancing privacy and light: many people find a mid-height fence feels less closed in, and you can add trellis panels along the top where you need extra screening without blocking everything. For fit, measure your bays and match the panel width to the post system. Slotted concrete fence posts need the panel made to the correct finished width so it drops into the slots cleanly. Timber fence posts are more forgiving because you side-fix, but you still want consistent bay sizes so the run looks tidy. If you mix panel styles, keep the same overall height by planning for gravel board height and panel height together, and keep the top line consistent with a string line so the change in style looks intentional rather than uneven.

Gravel boards sit at the bottom of the fence run. They lift your fence panels off the soil so the timber stays drier and lasts longer, and they take the knocks from strimmers, gravel and splashback. They are worth fitting if the ground is damp, you have borders up to the fence, or you want the neatest finish with a consistent ground line. Concrete gravel boards are tough and low maintenance, and they suit concrete fence posts because they slot in neatly and cope well with ground contact. Timber gravel boards are lighter and easier to cut and tweak, and they suit timber fence posts because you can side-fix them and adjust on uneven ground. Typical heights are around 150mm and 300mm, and you need to allow for that in your overall fence height or reduce panel height so you do not end up taller than planned. On a slope, timber gravel boards are usually easier to step in short sections, while concrete gravel boards can still work but need more accurate digging and levelling so they sit correctly in the post slots.

For a timber garden gate, use proper pressure treated timber fence posts rather than standard panel posts. For most pedestrian gates, go 100mm x 100mm as a minimum, and step up to 125mm x 125mm if the gate is wide, tall, or a heavier framed gate. Set posts at least 600mm deep in concrete (closer to 750mm in soft ground or exposed spots), keep the hinge post perfectly plumb, and use our post mix or cement products to get a solid, well packed footing with the concrete finished slightly proud and sloped so water sheds away from the post. Leave ground clearance to suit the surface: around 50mm over gravel, 25mm to 35mm over paving, and more if the drive or path rises on the swing. For side gaps, aim for roughly 5mm each side (about 10mm total) so the gate has room to move with weather. On ironmongery, hook and band hinges from our ironmongery range are the best choice for most gates because the band spreads the load and helps prevent twist, whereas T hinges suit lighter gates only. Fit the top band close to the top rail and the bottom band close to the bottom rail, with the hooks on the post and the bands on the gate. To reduce drop, set the hinges with a slight “pin-up” bias by having the top hook a touch higher than the bottom, and make sure both hooks are aligned so the gate swings freely without forcing. For closing, a thumb latch is the usual fit, and add a tower bolt if you want it held shut in wind or secured when needed. Decide swing before you drill: check it clears paths and steps and that the latch will be reachable from the side you need. If it catches after a few weeks, first check the hinge post is still plumb and the fixings are tight, then adjust by moving the hooks slightly or packing behind hinge plates if needed. Only plane the latch edge as a last resort, and re-seal any fresh timber cuts with an end-grain preservative.

Mark the line with a tight string line between your end points, then set your end and corner fence posts first, plumb and at the finished height. Work to the panel size, not post centres: treat each bay as the clear space the panel needs. With slotted concrete fence posts, that means measuring the slot to slot gap so a 6ft panel actually drops in cleanly. With timber fence posts, measure the clear opening you want and allow for your side fixings and a small fitting gap so the panel is not forced. Over longer runs, keep the string line in place and use intermediate pins so it cannot bow. For corners, use a builder’s square or the 3-4-5 method to check a true right angle, then run a second string line off the corner for the next leg. If the total length does not split into full 6ft bays, keep most bays at full width and make the “short” bay at an end where it is least noticeable. If you are adding gravel boards, set them out at the same time as they affect finished heights and ground clearance, and on slight direction changes it is usually better to introduce a new corner post rather than trying to twist a panel off line.

Yes, most timber fence panels can be cut down, but how you do it depends on the panel type. Closeboard panels are the easiest: take the reduction from one end, remove the end batten or cover strip, cut the horizontal rails (and any arris rails) back square, then re-pack the boards tight and re-fix a new end batten so the board ends are properly held. Lap panels can be cut, but they are more prone to losing stiffness because the slats and framing are lighter: cut from one end, shorten the top and bottom rails, trim the feather-edge laps to suit, then re-fix a full-height end stile or batten so the slats are not just stapled on at the edge. Framed panels (often with a full perimeter frame) need the most care because you are cutting through a structural frame: the neat way is to cut from one end and rebuild the frame end, re-fixing the corner and rails into a new stile with decent exterior screws, not nails, so the frame stays square. To stop it falling apart, the key is to recreate a proper “edge” after cutting: re-fix an end stile or batten, then add extra fixings into every rail, and if it is a closeboard panel add a second batten near the cut end for strength. Brush on an end-grain timber preservative to every fresh cut, and if the panel sits on gravel boards keep the bottom edge the same height as the rest of the run so water is kept off the timber. For fitting, timber fence posts with side fixings are usually easier for odd widths because you can position the panel and then fix through with brackets or panel clips; slotted concrete fence posts are less forgiving, because the panel must be the exact finished width to drop cleanly into both slots, so measure the slot-to-slot gap carefully and cut the panel dead square so it slides in without forcing.

Pressure treated fence panels can last for many years in normal conditions, but lifespan depends on ground contact, ventilation, and how wet the area stays. Keep panels off the soil with gravel boards, use the right fence posts for the height, and make sure water can drain away at the base. Re-fix any loose ironmongery early and trim back plants so air can move around the panels.

Yes, they’re worth it for most DIY installs. Gravel boards lift fence panels off the ground, which helps stop the bottom edge sitting in damp soil and rotting early. They also protect against splashback from rain and help keep the fence line looking neat, especially where the ground dips. Concrete gravel boards last the longest and suit busy or wet areas, while wooden gravel boards keep a consistent timber look. Either way, they help your fence panels and fence posts stay straighter and last longer.

For most back gardens, 6ft fence panels give the best privacy, while 3ft to 4ft suits front boundaries where you want a more open feel. Check local planning rules before going higher, and if your site is exposed, consider sturdier options like closeboard fence panels with strong fence posts and gravel boards to help the run stay straight and last longer.